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Let's just say it's an interesting vehicle. It's somewhat of a love hate relationshop with this thing. It's a small, fuel efficient diesel powered SUV, (when it's running right, it can get 30 mpg on the highway), and there's a small host of convenient features about it, such as the fact that the VNT turbo acts as a built in exhaust brake, on long downhill slopes. It maintains speed without even having to use the brakes...half the time, I had to hit the gas to speed up, since it was slowing me down that much.

The bad-

Parts for the engine are somewhat hard to find, and typically expensive. There's only a handful of companies stateside you can buy replacement engine parts from, one of the big ones being IDparts.com. Moparonline sells parts also, but you'll end up paying a pretty penny for them.

Chrysler only made the US version for two years, 05-06, due to emissions standards becoming much more stringent in 07. This means that there's not a lot of these floating around, so parts and service are difficult at best. I've only ran into a handful of people that actually know how to work on these things, the rest has been me troubleshooting it online.

The EGR system of course, is a nightmare, seeing as how the CCV vents back into the intake, coating the CAC hoses and the intercooler with oil from the inside. This rots out the hoses, which I've replaced already-(right around 100k miles). The upgraded hoses aren't bad, but they are a bit expensive.

Due to the CCV vent and the EGR, the FCV in the intake horn can get stuck, as well as the intake itself has massive amounts of buildup-think, about 4 inch square horn, full of oily soot so there's only about 1 inch or less of space that air can travel through. I was able to clean out the intake horn, however, I know there were still deposits in the manifold...

I ran the home made EHM mod, to avoid dumping the oil back into the intake, however found out an interesting sideeffect-I have to check the oil monthly, and ensure that it's not burning off the vapors too fast. (I need to find someway to reintroduce mild amounts of pressure to the new CCV vent, without completely restricting it)

The fuel system in these was an afterthought at best-they used the gasoline fuel system and modified it to work. The plastic fuel lines that run between the tank and the metal lines on the frame go bad, which is an easy enough fix-marine grade rubber fuel line, some hose clamps, and that problem is solved.

The fuel filter head is also a known weak spot, allowing large amounts of air into the system. Despite replacing the filter, and having to replace the bleeder screw, I was unable to keep air from entering through the filter head. I fixed this by installing an Airtex lift pump directly after the tank. The extra fuel from the lift pump was enough to allow the filter to purge the air out continuously. A lot of guys have retrofitted the Dodge Ram in tank fuel pump to the Jeep, and had great success with that.

Timing belt-

The timing belt HAS to be replaced every 100k miles at a minimum-due to the belt stretching, if it snaps, it will cause the internals to take out the cams, rockers, and more. This isn't horrible to do-about 6 hours or so, if you have the tools and know what you're doing. (or at least done the research ahead of time) The tools can be rented from a company, but I ended up buying my own-about $300 or so, for 3 locking pins, and a cam gear locking tool. The parts needed to replace the timing belt will run you around $600 or so-timing belt, the plastic pulleys, the tensioner (which while not "required" should be replaced while you're in there anyway, in order to prevent them from failing due to high mileage with a new belt) and the water pump. The water pump can be replaced partially to work-there's a front and back half to the pump. The mechanicals are in the front half, so you can just replace the front half of the water pump-this probably saves about 2 or 3 hours of labor, due to not having to pull the front timing case off.

The thermostat on these can be counted on to fail, or already be bad when you get one-no ifs ands or buts. There was one guy for a while, in Australia, who was taking the old thermostats, which are a one piece housing assembly, machining out the tstat, and designing the housing to use a bolt in application-the easier and cheaper way, is to use a Standt inline tstat, in the upper radiator hose right off the factory tstat housing. This is what I did, and it's worked fine.

Mechanically, I've had issues with it not wanting to start up right away, after I shut it off, which I still need to figure out, I think it's an injector issue. I've had massive issues with loss of power, which I'm still troubleshooting now, thinking it's a leaky intercooler, which is also a common problem. And, of course, the air in the fuel.

Another thing to think about, is that a standard code reader WILL NOT work on these vehicles, due to the fact that the engineers had to create a system that allowed two separate systems to simultaneously run ISO 91410-2 on the same vehicle in two different control modules. Because of ISO 91410-2 doesn't allow for this, they designed the system to shut off one of the two modules after a few minutes of run time. Thanks to this, a standard scanner won't pull codes, a scan gauge won't monitor for more than about 20 minutes at a time, but I have been successful in getting my scangauge to actually pull the codes from the vehicle, after about 45 minutes of screwing with the settings.

IMO, it's one of those vehicles, that if you get a good one, you're good, if you get a bad one, your f***ed. I won't buy another one, despite the fact that I miss the mileage of having a small, fuel efficient diesel powered vehicle, but I'd be willing to keep it once I get it paid off, as a third vehicle, something to run around in, and use as a backup vehicle.

Does that answer your question?:lmao2:

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Yes, way to go! Very valuable info to know! You only know all these kinds of things from owning one and being observant!!!

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