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HOME MADE PENETRATIONG OIL

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thanks to millco for this valuable info :ok:

Home Made Penetrating Oil!!

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Interesting stuff to my friends that turn a wrench!

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.*

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ............ ......... 516 pounds

WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic

transmission fluid and acetone.*

*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one

particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all

now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is

about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

*Your experience may vary, etc., etc.

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News to me, but I'll give it a shot. Not too different from biodiesel being a better IP lube than any other magic elixir at any cost. Buy it for $4/gallon, add it at 2% to your fuel, cost per gallon of fuel $0.08.

I'll be surprised, and likely mildly disgusted or at least amused, to see what other (attempted) uses 'slayer comes up with for this fluid.

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a secret that we used on rusted, salty, bolts and nuts that were froze on submarines. is wintergreen oil. not very many people know about it, and it by far is the best to use! most All the hydraulic parts that came in to our shop were rusted really bad and almost every fastener was froze. a couple drops of winter green oil. let it set for 15-20 mins.

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just goolge oil of wintergreen.

this is from Wikipedia,

Oil of wintergreen

The Gaultheria species share the common characteristic of producing oil of wintergreen. Wintergreen oil is a pale yellow or pinkish fluid liquid that is strongly aromatic with a sweet woody odor (components: methyl salicylate (approx. 98%), a-pinene, myrcene, delta-3-carene, limonene, 3,7-guaiadiene, delta-cadinene)[3] that gives such plants a distinctive "medicinal" smell whenever bruised. Salicylate sensitivity is a common adverse reaction to the methyl salicylate in oil of wintergreen; it can produce allergy-like symptoms or asthma.

Wintergreen essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the leaves of the plant following maceration in warm water. Methyl salicylate, the main chemical constituent of the oil, is not present in the plant until formed by enzymatic action from a glycoside within the leaves as they are macerated in warm water.[4] Oil of wintergreen is also manufactured from some species of birch, but these deciduous trees are not called wintergreens. Spiraea plants also contain methyl salicylate in large amounts and are used similarly to wintergreen. Although wintergreen has a strong "minty" smell and flavour, Gaultheria plants are not true mints.

Wintergreen oil is used topically (diluted) or aromatheraputically as a folk remedy for muscle and joint discomfort, arthritis, cellulite, obesity, edema, poor circulation, headache, heart disease, hypertension, rheumatism, tendinitis, cramps, inflammation, eczema, hair care, psoriasis, gout, ulcers, broken or bruised bones[citation needed]. The liquid salicylate dissolves into tissue and also into capillaries, so overuse is equally risky as overuse of aspirin. Wintergreen also is used in some perfumery applications and as a flavoring agent for toothpaste, chewing gum and soft drinks,[3] confectionery, in Listerine, and in mint flavorings. One surprising application is rust removal and degreasing of machinery. Wintergreen is particularly effective for breaking through sea water corrosion.

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dad used to break loose engines that had froze up from sitting with wintergreen oil. but before the internet it was hard to find thats something Im going to get a bottle of. I had forgot about how well it worked

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PB Blaster rules :rockin: Also restores life to o-rings :train:

What about that stuff ZEP 45? It works well.

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I'm going to mix me up a batch of that Frankenstein solution :cool:

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I got that recipe from a guy I worked with. Since then I keep meaning to mix me up some and try it but I have never remembered to...... We all need to and then see how it works.

(Up to now, PB Blaster has been about the best I have found.....)

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Alright, anyone mix some of this up and try it yet?

Wish I had some last weekend. Rocketnut and I had a very nasty job getting off the hub on a front wheel drive car. The axle shaft (It is just splined and slides into the hub......) was so rusted in that we couldn't get it out with all the tricks I know.

A relative told us to go get some Krown KP53 Penetrating oil to break it free. We could only let it soak for a few hours before continuing to try and get it apart. At that point we put on a 12 Ton hydraulic gear puller and I maxed out the hydraulics on it and it still wouldn't budge. I then proceeded to hit on the inside of the hub (Towards the gear puller) with as large of BMFH as I could get in there with. I still had to beat on it for a long time but it did come apart. I don't know if the Krown turned the rust black or if it was my torch the night before...... But that stuff seems to work pretty good. Seems to stick around afterwards too. Almost looks like it would be a good anti-seize...... ?

I will have to mix up some of the homemade stuff for the next time and see how it does...... :popcorn:

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EDIT: Just realized I drug up a long dead thread!:wall: Serves me right for trying to get on at work!

I've used the homebrew-mixed up a batch on my own a while back, unfortunately, I think you really need to have an oil can available-one of the ones with the long skinny neck and the drip release. I stored it in an aluminum Realtree energy drink bottle, as that was the only metal canister I had at the time. I had a few exhaust bolts I couldn't get moving, and poured that onto the bolts. I'm pretty sure I used a lot more than I needed to, since I couldn't really control the flow of the acetone/atf mix (ie, I had to splash it up out of the bottle onto the bolts) but they came right off after setting for a few minutes. I think the key to the mix is that you need to shake it up before you use it, to make sure the two ingredients don't separate in the storage bottle/canister.

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There are a lot of mint farmers here in Idaho. We maybe able to find some during the fall harvest when they extracting the mint oil from the leaves.

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