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Dave

O crap

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I guess i shouldnt of sold my other truck

I had noticed my oil consumption in my 3rd gen was going up but was not really paying attention to it. So last week i topped off the oil and reset the mileage and drove over 800 miles. I am losing about 1 quart every 400 miles and I dont know where its going I dont have any leaks dont have blue smoke but I do get a lot of blowby after the truck works hard. i have an oil analysis being done, it isnt back yet but Im preparing myself for the worst.

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Sound like injectors failed and washed out the rings (blow by)...

I would do a compression test and see how bad you are. Then pull the injectors and have them tested as well.

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Dog gone it!!! Sorry to hear this! Kind of like the thread I started recently for a guy I know...... What is the deal!! This just isn't right....... Hope you get good news from your OA!!

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Becareful... I'm finding out the OA are allowing a percentage of fuel in the oil. The 6.7L diesel are known for fuel in the oil even under normal operation with no faults or problems. Check with Cummins on the percentage... :wall:

Even if it does come back with a fuel in oil result that means what? The injectors are shot... But still the condition of the engine is still unknown hence why I still suggest the compression test to verify the cylinder/ring health that there is no damage to them.

Still would be best to test the injectors (source of fuel in the oil) and get a compression test done...

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I havent got my OI done yet, hopefully tomorrow.I found a guy that I used to work with who will do a compression test and pull the injectors so I can send them off for 200.00 (I have to pay for testing) is that excessive? I dont have any metric tools so all I do is get pissed off and run back and forth to town buying shit, and I hate mechaniking.

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NOT GOOD!!!!!

Lubricant Analysis Report

877-458-3315

Overall report severity based on comments.

Account Information

Account Number: OILANA-7501-1419

Company Name: DAVID MCLERAN

Contact:

Address: 5476 SANDHOLLOW RD

NEW PLYMOUTH, ID 83655

US

Phone Number: 208-941-2587

Component Information

Component ID: KK5325 E

Secondary ID:

Component Type: DIESEL ENGINE

Manufacturer: Missing Information

Model: Missing Information

Application: TRANSPORTATION

Sump Capacity: 12 qt

Sample Information

Tracking Number: 12011L02244

Lab Number: I-674255

Lab Location: Indianapolis

Data Analyst: JUK

Sampled: 02-Apr-2011

Received: 10-Apr-2012

Completed: 11-Apr-2012

Filter Information

Filter Type: FULLFLOW

Micron Rating: 15

Miscellaneous Information

Miscellaneous:

Product Information

Product Manufacturer: CHEVRON

Product Name: DELO 400

Viscosity Grade: SAE 15W40

Comments LUBRICANT and FILTER CHANGE is suggested if not done at sampling time. Total Base Number is SIGNIFICANTLY LOW;

Infrared results indicate that NITRATION is at a MINOR LEVEL; Viscosity is SLIGHTLY HIGH; Please provide unit

Manufacturer/Model in order to compare data to proper standards for this unit;

Wear Metals (ppm)

Contaminant

Metals (ppm) Multi-Source Metals (ppm) Additive Metals (ppm)

Sample #

Iron

Chromium

Nickel

Aluminum

Copper

Lead

Tin

Cadmium

Silver

Vanadium

Silicon

Sodium

Potassium

Titanium

Molybdenum

Antimony

Manganese

Lithium

Boron

Magnesium

Calcium

Barium

Phosphorous

Zinc

1 58 2 0 10 1 1 0 0 0 0 18 3 3 0 100 0 0 0 392 381 1629 0 1098 1249

Sample Information Contaminants Fluid Properties

Sample #

Date Sampled

Date Received

Lube Time

mi

Unit Time

mi

Lube Change

Lube

Added

qt

Filter Change

Fuel

Dilution

% Vol Soot % Vol

Water

% Vol

Viscosity

40°C

cSt

Viscosity

100 °C

cSt

Acid

Number

mg

KOH/g

Base

Number

mg

KOH/g

Oxidation

abs/cm

Nitration

abs/cm

1 02-Apr-2011 10-Apr-2012 3000 139000 No No <1 - Estimate 0.8 - FTIR <.1 - FTIR 16.3 3.73 17 20

Particle Count (particles/mL) Additional Testing

Sample #

ISO Code

Based On

4/6/14

> 4

μm

> 6

μm

> 10

μm

> 14

μm

> 21

μm

> 38

μm

> 70

μm

> 100

μm

Test

Method

1

Comments are advisory only and are based on the assumption that the sample and data submitted are valid. Missing fluid or component information limits the evaluation. No warranty is

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I dont how to transfer a pdf to a different type of file any advice? It doesnt look like I have much diesel in the oil 1% maybe.

Most of these solids numbers are low enough they would be legal in your drinking water. compression test next I guess

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Let me pull a couple of mine and we can compare. I initially think your numbers aren't all that bad. I think yours states you have no fuel in the oil. We can tell better when I can get mine up.

What different file do you want to convert this .pdf (Acrobat Reader) into?

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I can send them off for 200.00 (I have to pay for testing) is that excessive?

I sent mine in to Diesel injection service in PDX and they tested and sent them back for free. The only thing I paid for was shipping there. There might be a place here that will do the same.

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I had to just use Print Screen to convert this from the .pdf they used to send it to me into the .jpg you see below. And I had to do it in two pieces... Here goes:

TopHalfof1stOA.jpg

BottomHalfof1srOA.jpg

This was my first Oil Analysis Report. If I can find the last one I'll post it up too (But it is similar to this one. I like BlackStone because of the 'Narrative' that they do by hand on each and every report. The more you do with them, the more info they have to reference and will use as needed in the narrative!)

Things I wanted to point out were the following levels:

Iron is too high! It was on mine as well but I found I have excessive wear in my rockers (Valve train) so I think my high numbers have come from there :wall::wall:. Only Aluminum I can think of right now is in your radiator, so I wouldn't sweat that one (I think...?).

Are you running a 'high flow' air filter? Your Silicon number is pretty high!! I am willing to bet you are running a K&N or the likes. I would highly recommend to all my friends that they switch to running the BHAF that everyone uses. On sale at NAPA it is only like $35. (The one I put on is even cheaper! And bigger!!!!!!!!!!)

I don't know about Moly........ I think it is in the oil....?

I believe they list your fuel concentration at less than 1% because it isn't measurable (At least not affordably!) in this test. I also understand that this indicates no problem (No fuel contamination). I would still have the compression and injector test done. It isn't a hard job but $200 sounds fair to me (If that's put back together, and all done!). As far as the compression tester: You need one that will work on this engine. It basically looks like an injector and needs to be bolted down in place of one. This engine is spec'd to have 350 PSI of compression.

If you need, let me know: I have a pretty cool .pdf of what all is done to remove / replace the injectors in a 5.9L Common Rail.

Basically look at the far right column of my report for what you should see as 'normal'. Hopefully this helps a bit..... :train:

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thanks milco that helps me out, I am running a AFE (how do you install a bhaf on one of these all I have for the piping is the afe stuff I accidently ran the box and pipe over years ago), and I lightly dusted my engine 40,000 miles ago my brother was watching when I was building boost and rpms trying to work it out of a muddy hole and when it would rev high the smoke would have a bluish color to it.

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Here is my latest. I know it is a little over the top.... But I am sure I have more than enough clean air!!!

MegaAlbum3.jpg

To install the regular BHAF that everyone uses: You just need a length of 4" aluminum sprinkler pipe (Or 4" OD any kind of pipe really!) and I think one 45 degree rubber air elbow. At the same time I upgraded to the better constant pressure clamps. You can get the rubber elbow and clamps at your local truck shop (Greer's, Six States, Cummins... Etc.).

I can't find the pics I want to show you so tonight I will try to add them and post them up here. It is such an easy install that I can promise if you installed your AFE you will have no trouble with this mod!! Only thing that stumped me was figuring out that I could use a 45 on the turbo, an short piece of straight pipe right into the BHAF and sit it in there at an angle where the factory air box used to be...... You will see when I snap a shot of it from my '92 (I moved it over into it when I made up the ridiculously large one you see above.

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well I just got my compression test done and here are the numbers

cyl#1 275

cyl#2 310

cyl#3 340

cyl#4 350

cyl#5 310

cyl#6 290

basically my afe took out the engine there was dust all through the intakes all the way to the intake horn. and I cleaned it about every 8000 miles

I had bought the best dry filter I could so I wouldnt have oiling issues yet still get to rebuild my engine. how do they get away with selling this crap? life I guess, sucker born every minute so it looks like Im in the market for a wrecked 06 truck i think that would be cheaper than 7000 to do a rebuild

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Yeap... I think you fried that engine... :wall:

I've never been a believer in washable filters. More times out of ten owners wash the filter the wrong way and place dirt back on the engine side so the engine can inhale it later. The other problem is every time you wash a filter you break down the media opening holes for dirt to pass.

I've been using BHAF on my 02 Dodge now for 7 years and the turbo is spotless. This is only my second filter in 146K miles. My first BHAF lasted till 135K and I gave up because the inside media was starting to darken. But still never pulled the filter minder. Since BHAF is a dry media filter it doesn't hold dirt or dust to the media so washboard roads tend to shake the dust out for ya. :ok:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S76NQu1Tn14]BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter) on a Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel - YouTube[/ame]

My article on BHAF...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

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damn...... sorry dave :wall:

expensive lesson.........

BHAF or stock is the way to go. time for an ITD bomb party for you aint it.

:woyt:

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or stock is the way to go.

Actually be careful with stock too. Stock filter boxes are rather weak. when I got my first BHAF at 50K my stock filter box was distorting and leaking dust in past the gasket of the panel filter so looking at the BHAF being a sealed filter I couldn't go wrong. But yes the stock air boxes will flex and bow and lose seal in dusty conditions. Way to check that is to spray WD-40 on the inside of the cover lid and then check in a week with a clean white towel if its dirty you've got a problem.

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there is several companys that have full rebuild kits for 1500.00 but i was wondering about reusing the head bolts are they still torque to yield?. Somebody mentioned that i would have to machine the pistons for height ? I will probably have to bore it, and machine the block and head flat again is there anything else Im missing while putting together prices?

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