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mechelement

What tires do you run?

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I bought the truck and it had Toyos on it. The Toyos it has on it, suck in the snow. I've used Big-O Tire for tires thus far and they haven't steered me wrong yet. I went in and spoke with the manager and asked him about Michelin LTX AT2's. He said not to waste my money on them and to get a Big-O Mesa tire which is made by Cooper - I think.

Anyone here run Big-O brand tires? If so, how are they holding up? The manager said due to the work I'd put the tires through, spending the extra $$$ on Michelins, I'd never get the value out of them. If not, what tires are you running, are they good in the snow and where'd you get them?

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Before I went with the 19.5 big rig tires I had these Toyo M55's. They are a commercial rated tire that worked great in snow and mud. I pulled a 12,000 pound trailer through the mountains across Utah and Wyoming a few years back throwin snow over the front of the hood as I was plowin the snowbanks. My truck is used for farm work so trailers through the muddy pastures is common place and they worked well for that also.

http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/m-55

Whatever ya do just be sure to ignore the numerical weight rating on the tire and pay attention to the load range. Be sure to get an "E" load range tire. "D"s will work but our trucks empty are right on the edge of they're rating and leaves nothin to spare for the loads and when they blow, they blow fast which also makes em dangerous. I've lifted the tread off of two load range "D" tires so far in the life of this truck.

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What big rig runs 19.5s? Those should be chip and bread van/UPS/FedEx truck wheels. Big rigs usually run 22.5 or 24.5 wheels.

I put a set of Goodyear Duratracs on the truck last week. I am very happy with them so far. Wet traction alone is at least 3-4x better than the BFG M/Ts I was running before. The worse tire took 6 oz of weight to static balance. My BFGs all had 10-14 ounces.

I hauled 4,000lbs of gravel in the bed of my truck this morning and the tires didn't even flinch.

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I use to run Toyo MT's. Seemed damn good in the snow to me. I currently have Cooper Discoverer STT's on the dakota (cheaper version of the Toyo's), they seem to wear a bit quicker. I use to run Big-o XT's years ago. I dont think they even make the same ones anymore. They were an excellent tire imo.

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I'm getting load E rating tires for sure. The Toyos on the truck now are load D rating and bulge out under the weight of the PSD.

What big rig runs 19.5s? Those should be chip and bread van/UPS/FedEx truck wheels. Big rigs usually run 22.5 or 24.5 wheels.

I put a set of Goodyear Duratracs on the truck last week. I am very happy with them so far. Wet traction alone is at least 3-4x better than the BFG M/Ts I was running before. The worse tire took 6 oz of weight to static balance. My BFGs all had 10-14 ounces.

I hauled 4,000lbs of gravel in the bed of my truck this morning and the tires didn't even flinch.

Static balancing sucks. Les Schwabb and their static balancing garbage had my old man's truck in their shop several times and finally to the dealership. The dealership dynamically balanced his tires and everything was fixed. The dealership wrote down how radically off the tire balancing was. Big-O uses dynamic balancing.

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I run BFG a/t's on the IDI. They are an alright tire. Got them a little muddy and they did alright. Haven't driven it in the snow yet. I really liked my cooper stt's and if I get a new set cooper stt's are probably what i'll get.

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I'm still on the Michelin LTX that came on the truck as OEM's. They are definitely a hwy tire. They have 40,k on them now and I'm sure that half of the tread has to be gone. I noticed a drop in snow traction last winter in a couple of different situations (It's not like they really are for snow anyway... I understand that!). First we couldn't make it up the driveway to her dad's place. The 1/2 ton gasser that took us up there had wore out Good Years on it (That was embarrassing!) Second was when I lost it on a corner and put the truck in a snow bank off the side of the road. Yes it was really slick out. Yes I was going too fast. I still think the tires should have had enough traction on them to keep us in the road.... Who knows?

It is interesting to hear about the BFG's! I was going to grab a set for winter...... Planned on just using the Michelins for fair weather to finish out their life....

I know a tire guy to go ask. He has been doing this for quite a while now and always 'steers' me in the right direction. I'll report back what he has to say....

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What are you basing that one? Many wheels you can't put weights on the outside edge. I have static balanced lots of tires when I worked in a tire shop. The only time it wasn't doable is if the tire was very out of balance, but dynamic balancing wasn't going to make it that much better IMO.

Yes static is not as good as dynamic, you need more weight, but it hardly "sucks".

Sounds like Schwabs didn't know WTF they were doing. I have seen wheels balanced by them that had weights all over the wheel. That right there is a sign that the operator wasn't trained correctly.

I'm sure Big O can static balance as well... all but the cheapest balancers can do either or and some have quite a few other options as well.

Static balancing sucks. Les Schwabb and their static balancing garbage had my old man's truck in their shop several times and finally to the dealership. The dealership dynamically balanced his tires and everything was fixed. The dealership wrote down how radically off the tire balancing was. Big-O uses dynamic balancing.

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I deleted my post in this thread cause I hate feelin like I have to defend myself but I keep seein it quoted so it didn't do me much good to delete it. Actually there are a good number of semi's that run 19.5 wheels on trailers because of the weight difference between them and the 22.5's. The tire weight ratings are pretty much the same in most brands but the smaller wheels weigh less allowing more weight to the load instead of the trailer.

But then again none of this means anything in this thread anyway.

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My post was a question not a statement, though I guess the way I worded it, doesn't seem so much like that.

This is what I'm running:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Wrangler+DuraTrac

They were $210 a tire so not bad at all for a good E rated tire. Mine are not white letter though, for some reason some sizes are and others aren't.

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What are you basing that one? Many wheels you can't put weights on the outside edge. I have static balanced lots of tires when I worked in a tire shop. The only time it wasn't doable is if the tire was very out of balance, but dynamic balancing wasn't going to make it that much better IMO.

Yes static is not as good as dynamic, you need more weight, but it hardly "sucks".

Sounds like Schwabs didn't know WTF they were doing. I have seen wheels balanced by them that had weights all over the wheel. That right there is a sign that the operator wasn't trained correctly.

I'm sure Big O can static balance as well... all but the cheapest balancers can do either or and some have quite a few other options as well.

Personal experience. If you can't put weights on the outside of the wheel, can't you put a different style weight on a wheel spoke on the inside of the wheel?

Two family member have been burned by L.S. and another tire shop in the Treasure Valley. One shop told my stepfather his tires were all destroyed (looked new to me) and sold him 6 new tires. That didn't clear it up, so he tried another tire place. L.S. told him that his wheels were out of round and couldn't be balanced, so they sold him wheels for his dually. Then the couldn't properly balance his wheels and tires. They tried to balance my sister's wheels and tires. Now her truck vibes just like our stepfather's did. I told her to bring it to Big-O nearby and get them dynamically balanced.

My stepdad told me that when he was a mechanic, they would bubble balance tires and wheels. He said you could bubble balance one wheel and tire perfectly, take it off, put it back on the balance and it would be off.

I think a post disappeared and recently reappeared.

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My 17's have the adhesive backed weights attached to the inside of the rim.

I tried telling a friend of mine about balancing beads, even heard of some people using lead pellets. He wouldn't believe me.

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In the hot rod scene the new big thing is some rubber BB's that they sell in the plastic bottles in sporting good sections of all the dept stores. They come in like 2 pound containers. I've seen em on the shelves of Walmart but don't know what they are really for. I was just askin the kid about em when I happened to walk out to the barn and he had is tires all pulled.

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In the hot rod scene the new big thing is some rubber BB's that they sell in the plastic bottles in sporting good sections of all the dept stores. They come in like 2 pound containers. I've seen em on the shelves of Walmart but don't know what they are really for. I was just askin the kid about em when I happened to walk out to the barn and he had is tires all pulled.

I have regular BB's in my YJ's 37" tires as well as weights on the outside and inside of the rims. Super Swampers aren't easy balancing tires. The tires have been on that Jeep for ~6yrs and have never gone out of balance. I had a hard time convincing a tire shop in NH to throw those BB's in there, but they did.

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Can't answer ya on the brass or copper actual real BB's, I suspect they would be noisy in a daily driver around town. The rubber ones seem to work out great. Lot a guy's using them in hot rods and autocross cars. My kid does a lot a buyin, sellin and builds on drag car stuff and he has a Jeep Cherokee built for off road with 34" Interco mudders and a little turbo charged Miata that he uses for autocross and has used these in all of em, so far with good results.

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I won't take up to much space in this tire thread but to make the answer to your question on his car but to make this easy I found his for sale add for the turbo'd motor that is in it. If your interested in more info feel free to PM me or just start a thread and I'll have him jump in and tell ya anything ya want to know. He's a car build freak.

1.6 FMII kit with engine, trans, and ECU plus extras!

Hello all,

After a year of saying I am going to, I am finally getting the final steps down for the LS1 swap which I will be doing at the end of this year (hopefully). The turbo 4 cylinder is still in the car, and will stay in the car until a deposit is given so the prospective buyer can get a chance to see and feel the engine/turbo kit before they make the plunge. Now is the perfect chance to replace your tired 82rwhp 1.6 with a 200+ rwhp low mileage 1.6. My last tank of fuel driving around town yielded 28.89mpg, which is about average around town (highway is 32+).

The setup will consist of:

JDM 1.6 liter with recent timing belt change with maybe 65k miles total (My stock 1990 suffered the short crank syndrome)

FMII kit with intercooler and all the extras

Link ECU with MAP sensor,Knock sensor, Electric boost controller, and tuning cable

Vishnu fuel rail with dual feed setup

Good power steering pump

, alternator, and anything else hanging off the engine

Flyin Miata clutch package

stock 1990 5 speed transmission with 112,000 miles

3500 plus shipping. I will strap it all to a pallet and take it to any shipping place within a 30 mile radius or drive within a 200 mile radius at 25 cents per mile (just enough for fuel)

Also up for grabs-

Torsen rear end from a 95. Will come with CV's and driveshaft to make it a bolt in setup. 850 plus shipping separate, or 600 if you purchase the turbo engine setup

AWR Ron Davis Radiator- Maybe 10,000 miles on this. Still in great condition. It will come with two Spal Fans to keep your little monster cool

550 plus shipping separate, or 400 with the purchase of the turbo engine setup

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