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Oil bypass set ups?

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Hey guys, I have been reading lately about oil filter bypass set ups and was wondering what is the best set up or is it just as good to make you own. Id rather make my own than spend hundreds of dollars on a pre-made system. If I can make my own and get the same benifits then it only makes sense to unless the benifits arnt as good with home made. If thats the case, then it would make sense to spend the extra dough to get something that works. Those of you that have made home made systems, what do you use for a filter base and filter? Also what type of hoses are being used? I would think Hydro line would be best as far as wear, heat, and durability go.

I will be doing two systems thats why I'd rather make my own than to spend tons on a kit. One will of course be for my Cummins and the other will be going on our 99 tahoe with a 5.7. The tahoe is getting a new motor in a week, so thats what has me on this subject and I'd rather protect it being new and I plan on driving this thing into the ground! Any ideas are welcome!! Thanks in advance!!!!!

Can I use one on the tahoes transmission also? Is there any negative affects by doing that like pressures to low ect? How would you route the feed & return line.

Aaron

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I'm going to recommend the Frantz! It is great as long as you don't mind doing the maintenance on it (It sounds like you don't mind doing things like that at all!). All the reading I did on them made it an easy choice. Where else can you get 1/10th of a micron filtration for less than a $1 per 'element'? The things are perfectly safe too! A friend of mine was trying to convince me that they had ruined a few motors. I had to ask "how"? He said they told him that paper fibers from the toilet paper had come off and gotten into the bearings and ruined them, taking out the motor. I told him that seemed strange to me since it is impossible for anything that might come off the paper roll to get to the bearings. The oil from the bypass goes back to the oil pan! Straight back to the oil pan!! It is then picked up and pumped right back to the oil filter and bypass. Oil that goes into the oil filter is what goes on to the bearings. I told him it sounded like they had used an inferior oil filter that had come apart and that is what took out the bearings. I sure wish I could be there to 'diagnois' these engine failures! All you have to do it take the filter apart to see what happened! If it has holes in it then it is not filtering. If chunks of it's media are missing.... where'd they go?

Anyway, you get the idea. It is impossible for any of the normally plumbed bypass systems out there to do any harm. If they did cause any harm at all, it would be to the oil pump itself! The filter your engine has already will stop any harmful particles from getting to the rest of the engine!

What I do is to just use some air to blow off the end of the new 'element' after I get it installed in the canister. That way if I did disturb any fibers they are removed before I put the canister back on (The exposed end of the 'element' is where the oil exits and returns back to the oil pan of the engine.). That way there won't be any fibers or particles introduced to my oil pump. Once the 'element' is in use, the oil actually strengthens it and you won't have to worry about any of it coming off and going into your oil pan!

As far as using one for a tranny filter... I have heard tranny guys recommend against it. Because they don't want to see the oil flow restricted to the trans. I would have to agree. But I also want better filtration! I plan on using a large filter base and spin on element. My Cummins has 1/2" lines on the tranny. I figure if I use a filter base with 1" ports and a high flow filter then I should be just fine.

If you want I could get you some part numbers for Donaldson bases. I might even have some for their spin ons.... If I can't use a Frantz, then I want a Donaldson on there. They seem like a pretty good filter.

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I have an ams-oil dual by pass kit that I will be installing. The reason I went with them is there customer support is outstanding. I like the fact that I spin an adapter in the stock filter fitting and the lines run from there. No drilling or tapping.

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When looking to build your own I think you will find that there are not many filters and bases out there that get the really good filtration. For that reason I do recommend the Amsoil kits. On both your Cummins and Tahoe you can use the dual remote kit, which installs the bypass filter and a larger full flow fliter. you mount them somewhere away from the motor so you get easier filter changes, some oil cooling, increased oil capacity, and increased oil life.

Look at the BMK-23 for the Tahoe and the BMK-25 for the Cummins.

They are a little more money, but pay for them selves in increased oil life.

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Hopefully you guys know me well enough by now to realize what I'm trying to say. I really do always try to just help..... In either case: I'm not product bashing or trying to be ignorant. This is just what happened to me and I'm still trying to find out why.......

I don't know if you all remember what happened to my '05 with the AmsOil bypass set up (I think I posted it here.....?). Either way, I installed it at around 7,k miles. I think it was a BMK-25 (It's the one they don't recommend anymore for 3rd gens). First time I installed it, I had about 16" hoses on it. (16" each way). The instructions fail to mention anything about the noise the oil pump makes. It is a positive displacement pump so it makes sense it is noisy! Anyway, you should not mount it anywhere to the body! Only places it will be quieter is on the engine or frame. I mounted it to the right side of the radiator support at the bottom of that support channel (It is somewhat of a 'tube' that runs up and down). That way the filters both hung straight down and the bottom of them was just above the bottom of the frame. They slightly displaced the front of the plastic inner fender; but, were still easy enough to reach up from underneath to spin off and back on. I also used three 45 degree fittings on the ends of the hoses so they ran above the frame and right into the bypass housing. It seemed to work well.... except for the noise. Since these trucks are so quiet it was definately noticable. I think you would have heard it over a 24v 2nd gen! Loud enough that anyone who is not mechanically inclined would still ask: "What is that? Is something wrong?" So after a trip to Ok and back, I decided to change it a bit. I didn't like any other mounting position I could come up with, so I decided to try 'insulating' my mount a bit. It seemed to help quit a bit. Then it would only be noticable by the most in-tune mechanical types (Or at least those with very good hearing!). At the same time, I didn't like the way the hoses were routed. I wanted to use straight fittings too to try to help the flow (I asked if those hoses were big enough. They claim that those 1/2" hoses are big enough for class 8 engines. I still don't believe that. I can't find any flow data for my little 5.9L; seems Cummins doesn't want it public or common knowledge..... So, all I have to go on is the size of the oil passages in the filter head. Let's just say that they are bigger! If nothing else, look at the size of the opening in the oil filter). So to use straight fittings, I had to run the hose under the frame rail and into the bypass housing. This made the hoses each about 30 or 32" long. I figured that was still acceptable as I was still cutting them out of what was supplied with the kit. What was strange is this didn't cause any problems right away. It was about a week or even more later when it happened the first time. I started the truck and the oil pressure came up just like always. Then after about 15 seconds or so, the dash alarm 'dinged' and 'check gauges' illuminated. I had no oil pressure! This went on for a few seconds so I shut the truck off. I restarted it and everything was fine. It didn't do this again for a few days. When it did occur it seemed to be at random. Almost always after being shut down all night. It would only do it about once a week or so. I could never predict when it would occur. As time went on, I would just let it run until the pressure came back. I think it took about 30 or 40 seconds. I also had their pre-oiler (accumulator) on it and that seemed to make no difference. Over the course of this going on I had opened the hood a time or two and listened to the motor when this occurred. You could hear the oil pressure come back because the engine would quiet down a little. AmsOil technical told me it was just an over sensitive sending unit in my truck. They were aware of the problem and there was nothing to worry about. I decided to put on a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I tapped its line in right on top of the filter mount. It agreed with the dash completely. I had called technical a few times on this. The very first call was to tell them they had a problem. When I opened the package to install it, the whole bypass mount was full of metal shavings from the manufacturing process. I had to really clean it out before I could install it. They said that was the first complaint they had ever gotten on that. I know that is not true because about 3 months earlier I had called them with the same complaint. When I ordered mine, my dealer decided to get one for his 7.3L PowerStroke. I helped him fab his mount and install his. When I opened his box I found the same metal shavings all over his bypass mount (They said they hadn't heard of any complaints that time too.....). Either way, if a guy didn't notice that and installed it; his engine would get a healthy dose of metal shavings right into the bearings! Not exactly a good thing..... Anyway, this time when I called tech, I told them I wanted a letter head from AmsOil stating that my particular engine was in no way being harmed by their product (since they were still saying they didn't know what would cause my truck to be 'over-sensitive' and that I was not having a loss of oil pressure!). She had to transfer me to her supervisor, Daniel. He said that he would not give me any kind of letter as it was already guaranteed and that if I thought the product was defective, I could send it back. They would test it and only refund my money if they found it to be defective. To me that was a red flag. I told them that I would be removing it and returning it. I never bothered to tell them about the mechanical oil pressure gauge. They repeatedly told me they had extensively tested it and it was working flawlessly. Why would they not know about the actual oil pressure loss. There is no way a 'redneck' from Idaho was the only one who knew the oil pressure loss was actual and not just falsely computer generated! And, when I pulled it off, I purposefully unplugged that accumulator. When I got it off I hooked it back up and 'fired' it to see how much oil such a tiny housing could hold (My opinion is it could not hold more than 4 oz. If so, that isn't enough to make much of a difference!). I didn't even get one drop out of it. I don't know if it was defective or what; but, it didn't discharge any oil.

They were reluctant to give a refund on it. I had to keep pushing and calling and then they would refund part of it. Finally after a long time and much leg work on my part, I got a full refund. At that point, I made them refund the oil and filters also. I felt like because of the 'failure' of their system, I had lost the use of the oil and filters as well. They did finally refund it all, it just took way too long and too much effort on my part. I never threatened to go to the Better Business Bureau or anything like that. If they were going to do the refund, they should have done it at first and not dragged it out so long. If I had gone to the BBB or some where else, then I can see it taking a while to work out all the details. I almost forgot; there was something loose inside the bottom of one of the filters. Now I really don't remember which one; but, it looked like a support or something that was way off to one side.

They never would tell me what was 'wrong' with the system. I was under the understanding I would get it back without a refund if something was not wrong with it. I don't know if the pre-oiler was bad or not. I don't know if that filter was causing a problem or not. I still don't know what would have caused any of this. The ONLY change I made in it was to take out those three 45 degree fittings and go to straight ones. I also had to use the longer hoses. I didn't move or re-orient the filter mount in anyway (Well, except for those four 1/8" thick rubber pads for sound deadening!). The top of the bypass manifold was just a little lower than the bottom of the OEM filter when it was on the engine. I wondered if the thing was somehow being siponed dry when it was off. This doesn't seem possible to me since it was lower than the OEM filter was. When I removed it the filters were about half full of oil. The only difference I can think of is that at first the hoses were sloping right down to the bypass manifold. After my mod with the longer hoses they had loops in them that hung down under the frame: much lower than before and I think lower than the bottom of the bypass filter canisters.

(Cont'd below.....)

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(Never seen that: "Shorten your post"! Well........ Here is the rest of it:)

I don't know what to think of it. I have used their products for many years. My saws love their 2 stroke oil. I had a Craftsman saw that I cut a lot of wood with for 12 or 15 years. When I sold it the inside of the cylinder looked like new! I also noticed a big difference when I started using their 2 stoke oil. My saws exhaust smelled much better than with the petroleum products. And I really don't change my spark plugs either. My Sthil is several years old now and still on the original plug. Don't get me wrong, I finally bought one this year to take with me just in case..... I guess I wonder if they have gone the way of a lot of other companies. After years in business some start to ride on their reputations. They let quality slip and cut costs too far and just ride the reputation.... I don't know that is what is happening here; but, it does make a guy wonder. On that same truck (the '05) I had bought their TS-189 air filter. After just a few thousand miles I noticed a lot of dirt at the inlet of the turbo. I took that back to the warehouse in Portland and told them I wanted my money back. They called and said they would have to send it in and I would only get a refund if it was defective. I got a refund on that one just fine. It only took a week or two and there was no hassle. I since then have found testing on foam filters and they are almost the worst at stopping dirt. Only thing worse is the oiled cotton gauze filters! They have since stopped using foam or at least now offer the Donaldson nanofiber filters. Just after I got a refund on the bypass system they changed the bypass filters to a different design. I kind of think the one I noticed fall apart inside was the bypass filter.

Any way, this is too long now..... I don't know what to recommend. I personally will use the Frantz for oil bypass filtration. I like the design of the AmsOil better and it is a little more convienient. If you let the Frantz sit for a few hours before you change it, it is no mess at all! And it really doesn't take a lot longer to service either. In fact, if you are in a hurry, there is nothing wrong with changing your oil one day and then on a different day, changing it's element. I wouldn't want to do that with the AmsOil (or others) design.

You guys fire away any questions you got. I have pics of my installs and even may still have that AmsOil bracket somewhere if you decide to go that way...... I'll be glad to help out anyway I can. I would really like to know what went on with the install of that AmsOil bypass. Others had the same problems. Some thought it was from parking nose up. I don't think so. Mine was always perfectly level when it occurred. I do like to know how things tick and what causes different things to happen. I really would like to know. My main problems with their system is the small 1/2" hoses and fittings. On any system if you want to increase distance or length traveled you use bigger not smaller devices. Since this is more filtration and it takes the oil a longer distance to get from the oil pump to the bearings, you would want a bigger hose and filter than what the OEM design is. They use a significantly smaller size. That just isn't good. Anytime you decrease size you loose flow and it doesn't come back without a booster pump.

If you want to call me, PM me your number and a good time for you and I will try to give you a call. Hopefully I can provide a little help and will be glad to at least try......

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Great post Dan. I have done a few of the installs on the ams-oil and the fs-2500 and they are both good systems. I have never herd of them causing any more noise but then again they have not been on my rigs always customers. I too have see the metal shavings inside the adapter head on the ams-oil kit but I am the type of person who cleans everything before install. You should have see the look on my wifes face when I took a crank shaft to the bath tub with dawn dish soap and some brushes :)

I agree the Ams-oil kit is easier to install of the too. I will keep you guys updated when I get mine installed after I get back in the country.

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Great post!! I am really leaning twards the Frantz brand. I am going to have to do some more looking at their systems to see what Im going to need. This maybe something I do when I get back from my deployment that I leave for in 4 wks but hopefully I'll at least get the Tahoe done since that is a critical time for the motor, with it breaking in!! Pictures would be great when you get a chance.

Thanks for the help everyone.

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Great post!! I am really leaning twards the Frantz brand. I am going to have to do some more looking at their systems to see what Im going to need. This maybe something I do when I get back from my deployment that I leave for in 4 wks but hopefully I'll at least get the Tahoe done since that is a critical time for the motor, with it breaking in!! Pictures would be great when you get a chance.

Thanks for the help everyone.

You can put the bypass on a fresh motor, but do not use synthetic yet... And even with the bypass you still need frequent oil changes for the first 10K..

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I wish I had a welder so I could make a skid plate for my oil bypass and airdog! Unfortunetly I think I am going to have to do one of the following. Either bite the bullet and go buy a welder or torch with welding tip and cutting tip:hi5: which seems the most logical and diverse or come up with something else! I love the rattle can paint idea!!!!! Think I'm going to have to do that myself. Especially since I will be deploying in less than a month and I know my wife wont wash the road salt off each time. Hopefully that will keep the truck half way decient till I come back. Thanks guys I got some good ideas now. I just ordered a Frantz system so I'm excited. Think I will but it on the new tahoe motor when I get it in next week. Then maybe another one for my cummins. :dodge Again thanks!

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