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actually,,,,,,,,there is a kit to do so. if i can rembr the name of it :?

also,,,,,,,,,,you can change wheel cylinders to help. 2500 rigs can change to 3500 cylinders for an improvement. both can chnge to a shitfilet,,,,,,,,uh,,,,,,, chev-ro-ley wheel cyl to inprove performance of the rear brkes.

hoepfully the name of the rear disc converion kit will pop back into my head. i remember tho tha they werent inexpensive.

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Guest Mopar1973Man

Like Muddy I know there is a kit out for converting the drum rears to disc rear brakes... As for who I'm not sure but if I find any information I'll post it up here... :thumbup:

As for brakes... I still got the factory shoes and never had a problem yet... Other than adjusting the E-brake shoe once in awhile...

:roll:

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I find the Dodge brakes to suck ass. Plain and simple.

My truck and my buddies 01 are teh same way. You have to about stand on the pedal to get the truck to stop. I'm not sure how a little lady would be able to do it.

I put the Chevy cylinders and it didn't make a difference at all other than the pedal travels a bit farther down.

The brakes suck ass so much, I stop better with my 8000lb trailer than without :shock:

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What brand of brake pads did you use if there napa IMHO are junk under a load need both feet to slow down. I use raybestso just under the prem pad you can lock them up under load with one foot.

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Just got the slotted and dimpled front rotors on today along with Hawk pads. They seem to stop better than the OEM but we'll see as I get some miles on them.

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Actually talking to folks who have made the conversion to disks are not that happy with them. The biggest improvement you can make is by using the Chevy 1 ton cylinder. It's makes a huge difference in braking.

Nate you are right, your truck will stop better with a load then without. Under the bed of your truck is a contraption that looks like a small shock that comes off the brake line. This is an actuator that increases brake pressure when you have weight in the bed of the truck. If you still want more brake then you get from the new cylinder you can disconnect this actuator from the bed of the truck and wire it in the loaded position. The will increase braking pressure.

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I would be willing to bet that they didn't change the proportioning valve by the master cylinder as to the disc brake setup.

My truck stops better with my trailer because of the trailer brakes. The "load sensing" proportioning valve in the back is disco'd and zip tied so it's full flow. If I stand on the brakes, it will lock up the ass end, but it takes some strong legs.

I put the Chev duallie wheel cylinders and it made no difference at all other than the pedal travels a bit farther down (because of the increased volume). I'm really not sure why it doesn't help on my truck, but others claim it's a great upgrade.

I thought perhaps it was a master cylinder problem on my truck, but I drove my friends 01 and the pedal pressure to stop was exactly the same, so that pretty much ruled it out.

I don't know if any of you guys have driven a Duramax truck, but push on the brakes like you do on the 2nd gen Dodges and you will be pulling your teeth out of the steering wheel :-o

Even my Jeep Grand Cherokee, (which was stock with 29" tires and about 3800lbs) at 5000lbs and with36" tires stops better than my truck. That is with stock brakes and cheap pads even.

Actually talking to folks who have made the conversion to disks are not that happy with them. The biggest improvement you can make is by using the Chevy 1 ton cylinder. It's makes a huge difference in braking.

Nate you are right, your truck will stop better with a load then without. Under the bed of your truck is a contraption that looks like a small shock that comes off the brake line. This is an actuator that increases brake pressure when you have weight in the bed of the truck. If you still want more brake then you get from the new cylinder you can disconnect this actuator from the bed of the truck and wire it in the loaded position. The will increase braking pressure.

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Another reason for weak brakes is also the vaccuum pump. If it is getting weak, it will deffinately affect the brakes first since they take the most pressure. After that the power steering will start having intermitent problems and when it's completely shot the other odd ball things will go. Cruise control, temp adjustments and so on. I know my pump has been on it's way out for a few years now and I have just put off rebuilding it. And yes my brakes are weak, and every one in a while my power stering feels like a non-power steering, give it a few seconds and it builds up pressure and works right.

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EGR makes a rear disc brake conversion kit but I have heard that it is not the best to use, I believe that they have the rotor from a ford and the caliper off from an older 70's caddy. If you are serious about changing to disc brakes I would buy a whole axle from a 2001.5-2002 with the brakes already on them and then see about getting the proportioning valve for it at the same time. I have a 2001 with drum brakes and I can barely notice a difference in mine compared to my dad's which has disc brakes.

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Guest Mopar1973Man

I got to admit the 2nd Gen rear disc are sweet for braking power... If it was for the ABS system I would be picking my teeth out of the steering wheel... No joke!

Trust me there has been a few time when the ABS has failed and tripped the light. But then playing around with the brake without it is kind of dangerous and crazy! :nono:

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I think you have things mixed up a bit. On the 24v trucks, the power steering pump runs the steering and the brake booster.

The vacuum pumps runs the cruise, HVAC doors, etc.

Another reason for weak brakes is also the vaccuum pump. If it is getting weak, it will deffinately affect the brakes first since they take the most pressure. After that the power steering will start having intermitent problems and when it's completely shot the other odd ball things will go. Cruise control, temp adjustments and so on. I know my pump has been on it's way out for a few years now and I have just put off rebuilding it. And yes my brakes are weak, and every one in a while my power stering feels like a non-power steering, give it a few seconds and it builds up pressure and works right.

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Then I got problems. Cause my Vac pump is leakin oil like an open cap out of it and have had a problem with weak breaks for some time now. Weaker then stock that is, and my power steering is only a problem intermitantly when the truck is idleing. I even went to the EGR brake system for the front brakes along with the stainless lines. It did make a considerable difference in brake feel, they aren't near so mushy anymore.

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The oil leak is the seal in the vac pump probably. $8 seal kit and an afternoon will have that fixed up.

Weak brakes/steering could be a weak steering box or really anything else in the system.

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Guest Mopar1973Man
I think you have things mixed up a bit. On the 24v trucks, the power steering pump runs the steering and the brake booster.

The vacuum pumps runs the cruise, HVAC doors, etc.

On 2002 edition trucks my vacuum pump only covers HVAC and the Exhaust Brakes... That's it!

Power steering pump covers the steering box and power brakes...

Cruise is electronic on my version...

This is only for information purposes...:roll:

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