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Sensor for what?

If you are talking about trans temp, you can cut the cooler lines where they 90* into the water/oil cooler on the side of the block and put a T right there.

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Welcome from another Albertan.

There are 2 spots you can put the sensor - in the hot line or in the pan. I would recommend putting it in the hot line.

Have a couple of questions for you::

1) What brand of guage are you going to run and

2) what is the physical size of the tranny temp sender? (1/4" 3/8")???

3) How mechanical are you?

4) Do you have a good tubing cutter?

You will be able to order the fitting from Grande Prairie Valve and Fitting.

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i bought the guages from glow shift not to expensive of a brand but they seem to work thus far.the sensor size is about 1/8-1/4 i think i should go into the hotline as the pan might leak if a guy welds it in.as far as mechanical ability i am actually a licenced mechanic just for big equiptment not pik-ups lol.i just want to find the easisiest and most trouble free way .i just put in my fass sytem this weekend as well as my guage pod and low fuel psi lite all seems to work great and believe it or not i think the truck even runns alittle qiueter not so diesel sounding now?i enjoy this site as you guy's cover alot of topics and seem to really help a guy out.so which is the hotline?

:cheer: from grande prairie alberta

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Ok now that we have that cleared up. I still need to get the correct size of the sender so that I can give you the right part number for the fitting (personally, I would rather not have a bushing in there if I can help it). Im thinking it should be 1/4" or 3/8" MNPT.

Also, you can buy a part from Mr. Gasket that will allow you to install the sensor in the pan and you dont have to weld:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=MRG%2D4470&N=700+115&autoview=sku

OR

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BM-80250

As for which is the hotline - I cant remember off the top of my head. But give me a bit and it will come to me.

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i cant tell u right now as my truk is in getting tires but as soon as it is out i will put it on here.

as well i have another question-i want fuel economy as well as reliabilty with good power and boost,so in saying that i have put on:s&b cold air intake,intake manifold,fass system,super chip chip,guages incl-boost pyro and trans temp(still workin on it) and i just ordered 80-100 hp injectors is there anything else besides a better programmer that i am i need of that is not going to hurt or leave me sittin on the side of the road lol i could do .they tell me that super chip has a boost fooler in it.

thanks for the advice

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Ok, Ive done some looking on the Glow Shift site and it looks like you have a 1/8" MNPT sender.

You will just need to Tee this fitting into the hot line and screw in the sender (as it turns out, you will have to use a 1/4"X1/8" bushing):

Fitting p/n: SS-810-3-4TTF http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-810-3-4TTF

Bushing p/n: SS-4-RB-2 http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-4-RB-2\

Will look something like this: 29002Pic001x.jpg

And you should be able to get these at Grande Prairie Valve and Fitting

As for your mods - I think you are doing pretty good there. The important thing is the FASS to ensure the VP-44 is getting adequate fuel to lube and cool itself. The only thing I would really look at changing is adding a cab mounted fuel pressure guage, which is still important, IMO even though you have a FASS

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am headed there right now to get that fitting thanks,u think even thou i have the fuel psi pressure light i should run a fuel guage?if the psi drops to 5 it will illuminate it is mounted right in my pod so it is very visable.or are u thinking for watching for potential problems as fuel pressure drops?

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Well, I did forget about the fuel pressure switch/light. I think a guage is much better than the light but do you have the equipment (DMM and calibrated pressure source) that would allow you to check the calibration of the switch? If so, you should be fine with just the light but I personally dont trust pressure switches because they drift over time.

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Not sure if I read it or not, but the hotline is the one coming off the front of the case by the bellhousing. The rear line is the cool line going into the lube circuit.

Also, watch that your sender doesn't project through the tee enough to impede cooler flow. With the setup pictured, I don't see it being a problem, just something to look out for.

I run the Glow Shift Gauges as well and find them to be quite accurate, plus I really like the color choices.

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well i went to get the fitting -the only place in town i prob dont have an account lol $60.00 lol wow but hey still cheaper than a tranny right.

i sure appreciate ur help now i just need to find the right line lol

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Yeah...they are expensive but they are top of the line, case hardened 316 SS etc.

You know how the Swagelok fittings work right? You cut the line, deburr it, install the fitting and then tighten up the nuts fingertight. Then mark a line on the fitting and a line on the nut so you know where you started. Then use a 7/8" wrench to tighten each nut 1 and 1/4 turn. Be careful not to overtighten, or it will leak. Here is a video that will step you through the install:

http://www.swagelok.com/FittingInstallVideo.htm

Have a look at Lumpdogs post to see what line it is.

I believe that the hot line is the one closest to the firewall:

37540Tranny-Temp1x.jpg

37540Tranny-Temp2x.jpg

One more thing...of course, you will need to use some Loctite PST (liquid teflon paste) or some Number 2 Permatex to seal the threads - dont think I would use teflon tape on them.

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Pretty much any plumbing store has the brass Ts and the compression fittings/adapters.

The Swagelocks are the "cat's ass"... but... $60 vs $15 :shock:

Way I figure, it's not like it's going to the moon, eh?

While your under there, take a drain pan and unhook the other line. Where it screws into the tank, there is a check valve.

Take that out and break out the check valve and you can even drill it out larger. It will help with cooler flow.

The only downside is if you leave your truck parked for several days, when you fire it up, you need to give it 10 secs or so to fill the convertor back up before it will move.

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I hear ya Nate - thats some good info you give.

But, hey, alberta cummins is a Heavy Duty Mechanic in the Northern Alberta oilpatch - I am pretty sure he can afford the Swagelok stuff. :D

(BTW, that price included the fitting and the bushing) and using stainless steel fittings ensures that the ferrules grip the tubing well. Sometimes the brass ferrules dont grip the tubing that well because the brass is soft (also, the hardness of the tubing factors in here as well) and you can have leaks. Look at the fitting in the pic I posted - it looks like its leaking a bit from the bottom connection.

That is not a pic of my truck, I found it on another site.

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the wages are good here guy's but so is the cost of living lol,i really appreciate the advice guy's it sure helps out filtering some of the b.s on the internet.

so i ordered 100 hp injectors ,valve body and boost fooler hope they come before next fri as i leave for holidays . anybody order from us diesel products?:)

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Glad to help.

Ive never lrdered anything from US Diesel Products but they have a good rep and Ive never really heard anything bad about them. Just a reminder, we do have some great sponsors on the site and they often give some very good prices. Its nice to at least give them a chance to earn your business.

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well after doing research,didnt really plan on buying but i think we all know how tht goes lol it was a time factor thing hope to get all installed by next friday.i will however check out the sponsors.:thumbup:

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I used an earlier model crossover line that had a bung for trans temp welded in. About $100 from the dealer.

I am not a fan of compression fittings. Seen too many leave people stranded on the roadside. Is this going to happen to you? Probably not, just thought I would pass on my thoughts.

I have a fitting that clamps to the hot line and requires no cutting. Reacts slightly slower to a "wet" sender, but works very well.

Dave

Diesel Distributors USA

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FWIW, I have used this particular brand of fittings in the instrumentation field for many, many years. If its installed correctly it will not leak.

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these swagelok fittings we use in the oil and gas industry pretty steady under more pressure and more volitile situations like explosive areas so i think they r the shit .thanks for the tip thou.

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The A.F. uses those on our equipment too. We have a 3500psi air compressor I was working on last night and I noticed all the lines have them

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It's not the fitting that fails. It's the line. Usually near the fitting. The vibration and weight in the line bouncing up and down the hiway fatigues the line.

Like I said, seen failures more than once. And this is just for the purpose for information other than to say what is "correct".

Personally, I prefer steel braid, but that goes back to the use in the race car than anything else.

Dave

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