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IdahoRob

LBZ vane position

26 posts in this topic

After some dyno testing and reading logs, then testing on the street and highway, I have found some things out.

LBZ turbos are a different animal then the LLY. Housing is tighter and with 0 vane position the LBZ can still build 25+ lbs of boost with a big fueling tune.

This got the wheels spinning in m head about fuel economy. Well on my long trip to Cali. I tried out some tests. With normal boost tables, I was running 3-6lbs of boost. I logged the range I was driving in (75mph) for boost, vane posi., mm3, and timing.

I then lowered the desired boost(2204-2209) in that range and made the min. vane position 0(2225). This gave me 1-2lbs of boost on cruise. Mileage picked up about 1-2mpg with just this mod.

You guys can try this with any of you tunes. Didn't seem to add any lag because of only modding right around the cruise range. Anytime the throttle was increased the boost tables went back to normal and built boost.

Boost at cruise is not needed and too much causes unneeded back pressure hunting MPG.

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This thing seems to work pretty good. Rob told me about it when he was on his way to Bakersfield so I had to put it on my truck to test it out. I haven't gotten any good MPG checks yet, but I'm going to fill up today and see what I got going to the dinner and back home last night. According to my DIC I'm sitting at 19.6, but I have no idea how accurate that thing is now.

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Don't forget to take into consederation the FUN rides we had last nite... HAHAHA That thing is BAD ASS.....:thumbup:

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Ok you guys might be thinkin, Damn Randy's tryin it and he's lost AGAIN.. Well I am Kinda sorta.. I went into 2204-2209 my question is how much or what % do you guys play with and another thing on 2225 Min vein position are you putting all to 0 or what... Go ahead and kick my ass but I was messin with it and I don't think I was doing it right... Sorry guys..

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Here's what I did, Randy.

In my boost tables I highlighted from 300 RPM to 2000 RPM and from 0 mm3 to 40 mm3. Look at the value in upper left corner. If you look just above the little 3D chart you will see a box that says "Adjust:" immediately to the left of it and a "#", "+/-" and "%" to the right of the box. Enter the value in the upper left corner in that box and hit the "#" button. That will make all highlighted cells that value. Then blend the chart from 1900 RPM to 2400 RPM and then from 35 mm3 to 50 mm3. I did that for the medium and low altitude tables, but not the high altitude tables.

I then went in and made my desired vane position 0 from 300 RPM to 1900 RPM and from 0 mm3 to 35 mm3. I did that for each table.

I then went into the minimum vane position table and made it 0 from 120 RPM to 2000 RPM and from 0 mm3 to 40 mm3.

That gets me 0% vane position when I'm going down the road and it typically runs about 1-2 psi of boost. It also opens up the vanes at idle. The one time I looked at it while it was idling it was at 30%. The engine was cold then though so it may have been closed up a little to help warm up.

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Randy, please ask away if you have questions on anything. We like to razz ya, but I want to make sure if there are any questions, they get answered.

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Randy, please ask away if you have questions on anything. We like to razz ya, but I want to make sure if there are any questions, they get answered.

Hell yeah, I appreciate that....

One thing I forgot to ask last nite was how much do you lower the boost table, I went and -50% in the middle and then leveled it all out from there and basically made the table a lot flatter in the middle.. I was just curious what you guys start with for an estimate till you make the final decision on a tune... Thanks...

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Hell yeah, I appreciate that....

One thing I forgot to ask last nite was how much do you lower the boost table, I went and -50% in the middle and then leveled it all out from there and basically made the table a lot flatter in the middle.. I was just curious what you guys start with for an estimate till you make the final decision on a tune... Thanks...

What I did Randy, is I watched where the truck was logging on the boost table (i.e. 35mm3 X 1800 rpm) give or take a few. I then block out the boxes around that and including it, say 30-40mm3 and 1700-1900rpm and make those values just a bit above ambient say 14. Those boost tables have actual boost plus ambient built in, so try 14 and see where the boost is. I have a electronic boost gauge so it is easy to see 1 lb. This will allow for boost to come back to normal if getting into the throttle. Also change the min. vane position to 0 in that same area.

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My bad guys... I had the setting on Metric or something, not in terms I understood.. Stevo showed me tonite, I understand it now, now that it is in American terms and numbers... HAHAHAHAHA, I know I'm an IDIOT.... But you guys love me anyway......

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I was just curious about if you just adjust the boost table itself, do you still need to go into the % table and adjust there? I got it to where I run around 2-3 psi at 65-70 mph... but I messed with both tables, just wantin to know if it is necessary to adjust them both...

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You really don't have to adjust the position tables. The vane positions will move whereever they need to to achieve the desired boost numbers, at least that's been my experience.

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Hmm I really wish this would of worked for me! I know exactly what and how you guys are doing this,However it didnt change my MPG

last cristmas I wwas working and driving about 200 miles a day and had a dsp 5 tune in the truck (LLY ). I was flashing 2 times a day with small changes

20 psi to 2 psi never made a difference???WTF? I also had my drive pressure gauge in and was logging it to for reference

I managed to reduce drive pres to a 1:1 basis but also tried with the 1:2 range

after 60+ tunes I gave up on the reduced boost method for gaining MPG

FWIW I dont useally talk about this as it should not be this way and most people wouldnt believe it anyways...lol

Heck I myself find it odd!

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I have a boost controller and when I'm on the freeway I turn it all the way down and I see a couple mpg gain...

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I have a boost controller and when I'm on the freeway I turn it all the way down and I see a couple mpg gain...

And so you should, I really dont know why I got the fuel mileage I did?

I have a few thoughts but it was brutal MPG

I have other tunes that I can get better mileage from than the ones I was working on then,I was mostly just playing around with boost and drive press

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I tried the boost to 2 psi. and no mileage increase, I pull all day long so don't know if trailer has anything to do with the boost, since I'm not in the same tables adjusted pulling vs. empty. Empty not too much diff, but I gave up on boost and went back to stock or a tad more.

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I tried the boost to 2 psi. and no mileage increase, I pull all day long so don't know if trailer has anything to do with the boost, since I'm not in the same tables adjusted pulling vs. empty. Empty not too much diff, but I gave up on boost and went back to stock or a tad more.

I gain more mileage increase from timing and fuel mods

I like a cruise timing of about 8* seems to work good for me

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Thats what I have noticed too.. I have recently set max timing to match my timing table I have. So far so good.

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Thats what I have noticed too.. I have recently set max timing to match my timing table I have. So far so good.

Really? Hmmm May I ask why as in whats your thoughts on this?

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Really? Hmmm May I ask why as in whats your thoughts on this?
I can answer that. We noticed that even with all the multipliers turned off (or at least the ones that are available to us) his actual timing was about .5 to 1 degree higher than what his timing table was set at (even with all tables set the exact same). We did a copy with labels and paste with labels into his max timing tables (there were a couple of gaps that needed to be filled, and one column that had to be manually copied) and after that his timing was within .1 degree of his timing table.

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