Jump to content
Firstgenfanatic

Help!! Looking for someone that can help me with my VE pump

Recommended Posts

:alert:alertI'm looking for anyone with a 1st gen dodge that can help me get my rig back on the road. I live close to Stateline, Idaho. My pickup has the top pump pulled off and I have been trouble shooting a fuel pin issue on it for 2 weeks with no luck.:confused: I would greatly appreciate anyone that could help who has VE experience. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, basically my pickup is bone stock..........the pump is stock (untouched) and I also have no gauges. 2 weeks ago I got curious about my fuel pin and wanted to pull it out and see where the excentric cone on the bottom was position. I did pull the fuel pin out and looked it over and immediately put it back in and tightened the 4 screws down on the AFC housing cover. That's all I touched. Right after I did that, I started the pickup and drove it down the road a ways. Immediately driving it, I noticed the pickup had no power/exceleration. I could actually put the pedal to the floor and nothing would happen! The pickup would very slowly gain speed, but as soon as you hit a slight grade/uphill condition..........it would fall on it's face and only do about 25mph when the pedal to the floor. Basically all this immediately occured after messing with the fuel pin..........what happened? After 2 weeks.........I have only a few hunches to go off of as to what is causing this and a undriveable 1st gen collecting dust in my driveway. :confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well ive never experienced anything like that while messing with the fuel cone. even if the fuel pin was riding on the fuel cones shallowest setting it wouldnt act like that.

do you have a lot of smoke out the exhaust? did you make sure that the fuel pin (the little pin that is in the bore that the fuel cone rides on) wasnt sticking out when you put the afc cover back on?? if you move the throttle shaft while the fuel cone is out it will pop out into the bore. if it is, you will need to remove the afc cover diafram, pin and push it back in with a screwdriver or something. even if it was that it would have power.

give me some more info and we'll go from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, here is some added info for you.........

The pickup has never smoked before or after messing with the fuel pin

The smaller pin was retracted back out of the way before I put the fuel pin back in.

I have taken the fuel pin in & out several times to make sure of the proceedure

Something I noticed is that the smaller pin does not come out when I actuate the throttle (with fuel pin removed) I have been told that this is a major issue and that it's not functioning correctly. Some people say it comes out, others say no. I'm very confused at this point in time because of many people's opinions.

I made sure that the intercooler boots where not damaged or unseated

I checked to make sure the gas pedal in the cab was mechanically opening the throttle up all the way

The pickup runs good in park or neutral (I ran rev the engine up and it's very responsive) In gear the pickup is a slug.......little to no exceleration and it cannot go over 25mph on hills.

air filter to turbo has a clear path

Bottom line: This problem occured instantly after messing with the fuel pin

I'm lost at this point and trying to seek help from someone that knows VE pumps well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could you have damaged the rubber diaphram ???

Maybe pull the cover back off and carefully check over the rubber for a hole or pinched edge.. You need to check very closely

If damaged it will let boost pressure enter the pump. It might explain why it runs good when in nuetral, theres no boost. When theres a load on the motor like when driving up a hill you get boost and that could be entering the pump.

Those rubber parts get old and brittle over time. You could have killed it when you tightened the cover bolts back down.

Im no expert, but if thats all you did, thats the only thing that could be causing all the problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did check the rubber diaphram very carefully.........no cracks/splits/or tares that I could see. I also had 6 different people look at the diaphram to varify. I also checked to make sure my boost line fittings (from manifold to AFC housing) were snug and not tampered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only thing left to do is take the whole pump or at least the top in to a fuel shop and let them take a look. Might be time for a gov spring while your in there.

My friends truck acted kinda like yours when the internal return spring broke. Maybe it was just a coincidence that yiu were messing with the pin when this occured.

I think the bottom line is that you have a pump problem. The cheapest way will probably involve you removing the pump and let someone look it over and run it on a test bench to diagnose the actual problem. Thats all the help I can give you , Sorry man.

Maybe someone closer will pop up that can take a look at it for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's definitely a humbling feeling to have a new pickup break and not know much about the part that's causing the problem.:confused: Due to financial reasons, I will probably put the pump back together and limp it down to school in the fall. As the saying goes......"I have more time than money":smart:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Y'all! 6LCummins sent me to the rescue. O.k. Several things could have happened and you can check them off.

1. When you pulled the pin out the small pin in the bottom retracted into the housing and is now stuck.. (Bad) Cuts fuel way back.

2. When you reinstalled the pin the small pin won't retract and it's stuck under fuel pin in some position. Other words the thing didn't go all the way down. I have on some pumps had to grind a taper on the bottom so the pin so it would go all the way down past the small pin.

3. You rotated the pin when you installed it and now it's on the ramp in a place which holds the fuel back. You did know you can rotate the diaphragm assembly to change the fueling characteristics, Right? Rotate it back to were the small pin on the bottom has been rubbing on it. It'll have wear marks on it.

4. I think others have covered hole in the diaphragm and hose off intake to aneroid.

Hope this helps. Sorry if I repeated suggestions from other knowledgeable members. Had to list everything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the helpful suggestions :thumbup:

Yeah, I actually took the smaller pin completely out and inspected it closely. It seemed like once you reassemble the small pin back into the housing, the pin takes a little effort to push back and forth. Not sure if this pin should move extremely easy, basically free-fall back and forth?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, yeah.........that rubber vent was bone dry when I took it off and the AFC housing was somewhat dry too. I know the o-ring was doing it's job. I did however replace it with a new one tonight........just trying to eliminate any possibilities of malfunction. Something that I'm confused over (due to so many opinions of members on various forums) is how do you check to see if the smaller pin is working correctly like it should? Some people say the pin should slide out when the throttle lever is pulled, others say no way.....the engine has to be running for it to move. Which is it? Thats whats confusing me. I do know one thing, my pin does not move out when I actuate the throttle. You have to manually push it with a screwdriver tip to move it. This is the next potiental problem area i'm pointing my finger at. Can you clarify this part of the pump for me? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, got everything back together earlier. Started the pickup and the engine immediately goes to wide open throttle. Checked my linkages and return springs.....good. Checked my throttle cable.......good. Started pickup again and engine went straight to WOT. Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps this may be a clue to my runaway (WOT) problem........Last time I put the pump top housing back on, I marked the fuel screw with a paint marker and also counted the threads exposed. I carefully backed the main fuel screw out (just enough to seat the top pump housing down flat). I then turned the fuel screw back in to approximately where it was before. Could I be so far out that the engine is not defueling any longer? Maybe backing out the screw will help my runaway condition? :confused: :-(What have I done?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Turn the screw out a couple of turns and see if it still runs away. These pumps act different once the 366 is installed.

I really think you have pump issues that need to be addressed by a fuel shop. Something is wrong and it might just be chance that you were messing with the pin when it quit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Perhaps this may be a clue to my runaway (WOT) problem........Last time I put the pump top housing back on, I marked the fuel screw with a paint marker and also counted the threads exposed. I carefully backed the main fuel screw out (just enough to seat the top pump housing down flat). I then turned the fuel screw back in to approximately where it was before. Could I be so far out that the engine is not defueling any longer? Maybe backing out the screw will help my runaway condition? :confused: :-(What have I done?

sounds like the throttle needs to be indexed to its proper location. you dont need to take the pump top of to do this. just remove the parts that are on the throttle shaft but install the allen nut that holds everything on( this will give you something to hold onto will trying to position the shaft it will also keep the shaft from dropping down)

since you dont know where it was when it was removed you will have mess with it a bit, i rotate the shaft all the way counterclockwise and then a 1/3 of the total movement clockwise, then try to start it. if it want to run away turn the shaft counterclockwise if it idles but sounds like its going to die, then you are close. the ultimate goal is to get it too start and idle really low without dying. then install the rest of the stuff on the shaft without disturbing the position. you will need to back off the idle screw all the way. once everything is on start it and set your idle.

when you pull it off next time pay close attention to the index marks (the slot on the shaft in relation to the lower throttle arm, there are marks on it) it may take a while to get it figured out but keep trying you will get it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sounds like the throttle needs to be indexed to its proper location.

since you dont know where it was when it was removed you will have mess with it a bit

:lol: I am totally aware of how the indexing is done, infact I paid very close attention to the indexing marks and the slot position before taking it apart. I ended up writing my findings down (4 up and 1 down) and even drew a little diagram so I wouldn't forget. Upon reassembly I indexed the throttle exactly back to (4 up and 1 down). The only thing I changed was the gov spring (installed the 3200). Some folks have been telling me that the stock indexing marks will not work after installing the 3200 spring......the engine will run different and do weird things. Any truth to that?

Another question I have is how "sensitive" is the full fuel screw? In other words, if it is out of calibration by 1/2 to 2 turns.......will it greatly affect the engine rpm? I have been reading about "runaway problems" and it seems they are caused by folks that screw the full fuel screw in too far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
No where in here did you say you put a 3,200 spring in and now you tell us.

Good luck, maybe somebody else here will help, I'm outa here.

ya i agree, im going camping,,,,, see ya!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another question I have is how "sensitive" is the full fuel screw? In other words, if it is out of calibration by 1/2 to 2 turns.......will it greatly affect the engine rpm? I have been reading about "runaway problems" and it seems they are caused by folks that screw the full fuel screw in too far.

the fuel screw on my motor is VERY sensitive. i go by 1/8th of a turn at a time to turn it up because im gettin close to it runnin away.and he has told ppl in chat that he had the 3200 GSK before. just not everyone was there. i dont know how it would act becuz of that but i know my motor is very touchy, if i turn it in another 1/3 im bout at the point of destruction and havin to get a gillatine(SP) and im not sure of wat RPMS i srun so not sure but i do remember my dyno sheet had me aat peak HP around 2300-2600RPM. good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

×