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Evan

Thoughts on drilled and slotted rotors

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Im in dire need of rear rotors.  They are done. I think ive turned them 3 times. 

 

Drilled and slotted

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/premium-cross-drilled-&-slotted-brake-kit.php

 

Standerd

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/premium-replacement-brake-kit.php

 

I kinda like just drilled

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/cross-drilled-brake-kits.php

 

I am now towing more than i have been  but not every day but am pulling about 11k. .

 

I cant decide.

 

They do have just drilled ones to. I have got my brakes hot comming off the mtn with horses 

Edited by Evan
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Been readong forums and have found diesel guys are nuts one guy hates em one loves em.

 

I do think im going to go with no slots or holes.

 

I got 280k without slots or holes so why change now.

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I went with standerd rotors.

 

Picked this up. 740ftlbs of cordless power. 

 

It breaks lug nuts loose on its lowest power setting

 

Makita high tourqe impact. Trying to find time to do my brakes might get one side tonight 

 

https://flic.kr/p/21C39sw

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I'm too late lol.  I have a set of rotors and pads from my 01 with 10k miles.  I did the 3rd gen brake upgrade and didn't want to toss them because they still have tons of life left.  Sounds like you got it taken care of though. 

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Are 3rd gen an upgrade? Rotor might be an inch bigger. 

 

Running some high end calipers and rotors brembo bear willwood would be an upgrade for sure. Also putting braided lines on instead of rubber

 

 

Heres how last night went.

2017-12-21_08-03-51

 

 

2017-12-21_08-04-29

 

This caliper is shot. I welded the passage on banjo bolt a few weeks ago when i noticed i was wore through the rotor.  I left the welded bolt in untill i get a caliper. So this is dummy brake for now

 

Makita removed all bolts including hub to rotor

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Syco how much do you want for your breaks. Do you have calipers to?

 

Curious about your brake upgrade. Did you have drumbs on the rear. I did alittle reading and it looks like 3rd gen and 01-02 share calipers but 3rd gen has bigger rotor and is ehy jump to 17" wheels..a bigger rotor will cool better but has same shoes as but cooler brakes always work better.

I guess i should have upgraded but i didnt think about it since im already running 17" wheels

 

Maybe on the front

Edited by Evan

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Whoa, your old rotors were toast.

 

I was asking $40 for the pads and rotors, no calipers as I reused those.  My truck is factory rear disc.  The 3rd gen upgrade consists of replacing the caliper brackets, rotors and pads while the calipers are the same.  I did all 4 wheels and it made a very noticeable difference.  I had recently installed the 17" 3rd gen wheels and gotten larger tires (33.4") and the bigger brakes made the truck feel like I was stopping with stock sized tires again. 

Edited by Sycostang67

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Lol yeah beyond toast those were the factory rotors.

 

Im running 33s to i may step up to 36s though on h1 bead locks later on. Wheels and tires are 500 bucks from idaho motor pool

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I'm still running the OEM rotors yet after 327k miles. I've only had them turned once. I prefer solid rotors and economy brake pads that way the rotors last a good long time. Then if you can install a. exhaust brake on your truck they really do extend the life of brakes. My first brake job was at 185k miles. My next brake job is due at 360 or 370k miles based on my first brake job. When I had my tires rotated last week I've still got better than 50% of pad left at 327k miles so I'll most likely go to 400k miles for my second brake job which will include new calipers and rotors all the way around. Not bad when you consider that amount of mileage. 

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I ended up doing my rear brakes about a year after I got my truck.  There was no noise or vibrations until one day it started chirping, checked them that weekend and the pad was gone and rotor chewed.  I figured it would have made noise long before that point.  I just put regular pad and rotors on then learned of the 3rd gen upgrade a few months later.  It took awhile to find the wheels at a decent price, most people want $400+ for corroded/rashed 3rd gen rims.  I managed to get mine with only some minor scratches for $180. 

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This brake job wad tufg on me between having no time to do it then fight snow storms. 

I either took master cylinder out in process of bleeding or it took itself out. I ended up running with only front brakes on ice and hard packed snow. Had to be in 4wd or rear end would walk sideways into cars at stop lights

 

Finally found time to finish it put on nee master final bleed and holy cow she stops like crazy now. I did have to give both banjo bolts a few love taps and retighten due to leaks going into the caliperd.

 

This was the last night i messed with it.

20171226_182717

I even lost thr dang nut kerper that keeps the hub nut from backing off.  Then found it a week later. 

 

Mopar om at 280 something. The one chewd rotor was bad but probly could have gone awhile longer if not for that. 

 

Ive done this around clock a few days and pushing daily.

Finally just today cleaned up a few church pking lots now we can breath again.

 

20171225_101619

Till the next set of storms.

 

I gota do vacumn pump seals now might do a 2" level control arm bushing or arms and steering and track bar.

 

My xj has the same shitty steering so i think ilk use it as my guinea pig to test on. Im not a fan of this style steering at all. Id just assume throw it in trash and build from scratch starting fresh from track bar mount on frame and pitman arm

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When 360k miles comes up I'll have to replace my factory rotors. I'm going to do standard OEM design from normal part store. Being I cleared that kind of mileage on factory OEM rotors why would you want to change and risk rotor failure from cracking or breaking?

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I was thinking i might just do brakes every few years. I like get all my mo eys worth out of every part but brakes i think ill look at as a maintanince thing.

 

I never felt like the brakes worked aswell after havong rotors turned. Maybe just the pads.

 

For  cost of turning rotors im thinking its just about worth it to buy rotors.

 

Ill do fronts sometime soonish. Just normal rotors and grippy pads

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Just had my tires rotated yesterday and while it was on the lift I glanced at the brakes at 330k miles I'm going to make to 400k on the odometer before changing brake pads. I use the cheapest brake pads and still running the OEM rotors yet. I've only changed the rear calipers last year because they wear leaking brake fluid. 

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Nice. My passenger side rearcwas leaking then it stopped leaking. Not sure how that possible. I was going to replace it but didnt have money at the time so i put new pads in it and it hasn't leaked since.

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