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Heim steering??? Diy upgrade.

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You can see the pitting and abrasion on the inside of the socket.  Not so shiny anymore.  I haven't seen any of this with the FKs that Thuren uses.

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Wiped out 3 different variations of the stock steering  and had death wobble many times.  The truck had 15k on it when I bought it and all 3 setups only lasted a few thousand before wiping out rod ends.  Swapped to the heims and never have worn any out yet.  Never experienced death wobble with this setup but it seemed on the verge until I replaced almost every single steering component on the truck.  Steering is crisp and clean now even after running 37s for quite some time.  She's back to stock with 34s and been doing great for more than 100k.  I'm guessing if you get a truck with a decent front end to start it may never be an issue.  I just couldn't drop the coin on the entire front end when I bought it so I went with heims.  Probably would have replaced it all at some point anyway.  From all the research I've done it seems as though some trucks never have an issue and others have every issue.  My luck always follows the latter. 

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Still never experienced death wobble and got close to 320k miles and still running Stock OEM tierod ends. I'll say tire size has a lot to do with the death wobble issues. 

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I would have to agree that 90+ lbs of just tire with the immense added dimensional forces can eat a factory front end extremely fast once one component starts to get loose.  Adding a lift and more leverage/bushing deflection seems to be a perfect recipe for a short lived front end and the road to death wobble.  One shot of death wobble can wreak havoc on all components in seconds with that much weight sitting over the steering.  I loved having the extra clearance and the look was much better but its all stock height for me now.  I'm still running 34x12's but everything is staying tight and there seems to be no premature wear.  The damn heims and bars are monsters and I cant see them ever being an issue unless its wear from pure mileage and use. They are still a wear item but I don't see that happening any time soon.  Maybe if the Teflon were to wear off but there is no sign of that at all yet.   I have to say, I inspect everything regularly and its pristine.  I've swapped to a better control arm and track bar setup which made a huge improvement as well.  I never liked the stock deflection and the squishy feeling it gave.  It also eliminated almost all of the pull from ruts.  The ride is much more positive and the response over stock is great.  I figured it would be very harsh but comparing to my old man's exact truck (all OEM@40k miles) save for the 3500/2500 difference I think its a much better driving experience.  Mine feels like its on rails compared to his.   I also swapped to different ball joints but not sure that would have been an issue after the arms and steering.  My only regular concern is the unit bearings.  I've had to replace one set but with the design and being a wheel bearing, its just the price of doing business. The steering gearbox... maybe.  I can see it not holding up to the larger tire setup but not as likely.  Once I drop on the bumper/grille/winch I may reduce the tire size a bit but I'll see how she does.

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I just just recently stumble onto DOR stuff.

They are proud of theyre stuff. I dont like draglink tied to tie rod. they do this to keep drag and panhard bar at the same length to fight bump steer.

 

They do have some cool stuff

 

Mopar im with you never had death wobble and my trucks been rd hard and put away wet. She only has 270k on her.

Biggers tiresive ran have been narrow 33s.

 

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I noticed theres heim steering photos in this thread thank you for them. I to agree heims are beef.

Drag link can run to knuckle but track bar will need to be lengthened and built to mach drag link angle. Doable but probly not with bolt on parts currently on the market. Heim drag link to tie rod does mach pretty close to  track bar angle but adjusting toe changes steering wheel center. I dont like that.

Synergy heim steering seems to beat dodge off road.

There is rubber slip on boots that fit iver the heims on the market to keep mud and junk out.

 

I have done ball joints and control arms man what a difference in the trucks handling. No to tackle steering and track bar.

2018-05-11_07-57-55

 

Ive recently become aware of steering up grad kit mopar sells marketed for the 03-13 trucks suposebly a bolt on for 2000-2002 and im unsure about the 98-99. Theres a taper change either in 2000 or 98 making it so possibly the tie rods wont fit. It may be 98.5 and older. This kit makes the lukes link look like bandaid thats been through 3 showers.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152043484603

One lukes link is pretty spendy at first thought you think this kit is expensive then on closer look its actually very nice.

Moog also sells this kit for 200 something but im not sure of the quality heck im not sure of anything labeled mopar either 

 

Not sure what steering im doing. Fab ruff stuff T steering, mopar kit.

I do no im not doing looks links or 98-99 snow plow parts

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I'll have to snap a few more pictures on the setup.  Drag link/track bar angle can easily be an exact match.  Mine just needs rotated a hair more.  I haven't done a final adjustment on anything yet.  I removed a 6" lift from the truck and got things set to be drive-able.  I still need to take some length out of the track bar to recenter the axle and steering wheel.  Currently it drives great but could use a tiny bit more tweaking.  There is an adjustment on both sides of the tie rod so steering center would not need to be changed for toe adjustment.  I've seen plenty of heim boots in the Jeep/buggy community so I know there are quite a few options for protection if wanted.  I've never had an issue with the teflon coated joints.  The non-coated ones would get some buildup and start sticking a bit.  I did read an article on the non-coated joints that mentioned they should either be run completely dry unless using a boot to keep the grease from collecting dirt.  This was also for a strictly off road application mind you.  I would never run the non-coated joints in any application.  I'll keep you posted if I ever experience any issue.  One other thing on the kits that have the drag link running all the way to the knuckle, usually they will only work with a lifted truck using a track bar drop bracket to get the angles closer and they also typically require a larger rim since they have more hardware bolting together at the knuckle and encroaching on the rim.

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Im running 17s.

I have to get up the nerve to do track bar. Will rework lower mount to exept a 7/8" heim and build frame mount to match factory steering with room to have a second location to match steering when it raises over the knuckle.

 

Gota get the balls to do it. I cant stand tierod ends locating the axle

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Parts are rolling in. Scabbed a rolling link welding deal so i can turn the bar and make a full pass welding the heim inserts. Heims are from ruff stuff. Tube is 1.5x.25 dom. Offcourse the heim weld in inserts are on back order. Thought i might pull a few long hours fabbing tonight. The lack of inserts put a dampner on that.

 

2018-06-18_10-18-40

 

 

Ive got some time mocking up cardboard. This bracket will tie into the existing crossmember. The other bracket will be similar but not tie to crosmember. Well i gues it kinda will its be a fully boxed bracket.

Bracket may change alittle ounce o hack off the factory track bar mount. Card board is awesome just stable on to shape then cut to shape you want.

2018-06-16_11-26-23

Lots more to come.

 

Track bar is part of steering will be set up for factory angle axle centerd. Then later a few weeks or month from now drill new holes to match my steering. Hoping to raise steering 2" so ive built that much drop into the track frame mount.

 

Realy liking the heims. They feel good look beefy and if they do happen to wear are super easy and inexspensive to swap on new ones or possibly change to bushings

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As usual it was much easier talking about doing the track bar. After 3 hours of mutalating the factory track bracket allmost setting the truck on fire. I was staeting ti regret my decision to go ahead and do.

 

At 4am this morning things were looking up and my doubts were aickly fading.

 

Today bracket is burned on boxed and im confident itl be plenty beefy, its 1/4" plate.

 

The truckdrives so much tighter. Im 1/4" from having axle centerd. Steering improved like 200% ride did some but its a 1 ton with 2k on its back.

 

Ill do some more measuring and get it centerd better but for now im off to a wedding. 

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I ran these up hill to make sure to get good penetration

 

2018-06-23_12-44-10

 

I almost didnt box it due to have to build the through coil support. Glad i did i think this adds a ton of beef to the mount.

 

2018-06-23_12-42-33

Ing

 

 

Up next is steering

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Axle is now tits centerd, 

I built the bar with lh rh thread rod ends. I can easily turn the bar by hand to center truck overaxle. Ive got it within a 1/32 ok maybe a 1/16,

 

Ive got a few hundred miles on it now and it feels like a different truck tracking straight and true down the rd.

 

I was worried i bit off more than i can chew so happy i did this they get like 438 for the adjustable track bar kits. I know have a beefy adjustable bar for both length and angle and what i feel is a better bracket than the bolt on brackets.

I will say this was alot of project to pull of in my garage and stilk be driving the truck by noon the next day

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Wish I could have caught a picture of your build earlier.  I would have suggested welding a hex on the end of the shaft for tightening the jamb nuts.  Its surprising how easily they will come loose if you don't crank them down good.  If you do use thread-lock without a wrench perch, you'll end up with a pipe wrench on your bar if you ever need to make an adjustment or replace a heim.  Not good for powder coating or paint. 

 

I finally got my axle set back to center and the wheel clocked straight.  She's back to driving like a dream.  On center play is damn near as good as any of my other vehicles and much better than stock.  When my fleet stops breaking I'll get some more pictures.  

 

I'm still not impressed at the factory stabilizer mount at the axle and how it comes out at an angle to the steering bar.  On compression or right hand turn it pushes out on the bar and pulls on the left hand turn or extension.  I would think having this in line with the crossbar would drastically help in my case.  I'm not sure how it affects things with the stock steering setup.  From your pictures it looks like it would have the same affect.

 

Here is a link to some FK boots that I found on Summit if you ever run into a scenario that you would need them.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-rers3?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-fk-rod-ends&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIio2mkqn72wIVj7jACh0C4AAxEAYYASABEgLLgvD_BwE

 

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I orderd hex tube adapters from ruff stuff with the heims. They got here yesterday. 

Instead of waiting 3 weeks i orderd non hex from somewhere else. Ive got a few thousand miles on the bar. Hasnt come loose yet. I did use a pipe wrench i dont paint stuff lol.

 

Im thinking about doing heims on the sway bar ends now.

 

Truck drives tons better with heim track bar.

 

I also replaced link at the pitman arm. I did because i was fearfull it was about to fall apart.

 

Im probly going to just toss the 08.5+ steering on it maybe moog(242)

For right now its improved alot.

 

I was suprised i can grab the bar and adjust axle center by hand. I cut a block to hold heim centerd on ball when i tightened nuts. Just about dont need to hold the bar then because the heim on the other end holds it.

 

 

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I do like those boots.

 

If i do end up fabbing a steering. Im not gona worry much about a steering stabalizer. Ill put my time into make sure angles are correct. 

If a stabalizer is needed i guess ill have to get ruffstuff cover and run the stabalizer of it.

 

Lots of time doing this

2018-07-08_12-15-03

 

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