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Evan

Converted my 02 3500 to single wheel

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th e old dually look good as a srw :thumbup:

 

for sure rear dana 80 close enough in track to srw one can hardly tell the difference at first glance.

 

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Thanks muddy.

The pickup drives so much nicer than when it had wide hips night and day.

 

Also had two randomn people asky if i put the 3500 emblem on it i said no its a 1 ton i converted to single wheel . Lol.

Bed does sit abought a half inch high for some reason. Will need to figure that out or live with it

 Guy at work said i need to swap axles now. I had him site down body line hes like hmmm i didnt think you could do that . I then told him i wanted to kedp dana 80 and might put spacers on front if if rear beaing wider gets to bugging me.

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Very nice. It looks good. I would never know.

 

I drive a dually everyday for work and i really wish I had a srw. I used to like the dually for towing but with all the grooves in the roads the truck is all over the place. Even a small groove will about change lanes for you. 

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I got new to mtrs with better than half tread now that i know 35s clear im trying to decide how to get rid of rake.

Rear sits about 5"s higher than back. 

I dont want to completly level it. Id lime 2"s or so so rear can still squat to level.

 

I was thinking 3" leveling spacer in front.

But now im thinking about lower the rear.

The rear block on the axle is about 4 3/4" that is roughly how much higher the rear is than front. I might pull 4 3/4 block and put 2" block in its place.

 

That way im not messing with front geometry by raising the front. End to level.

Cost is about the same either way. Well i might have to lower shock mounts 2" on axle if i lower the rear.

 

Just thinking out loud.

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2018-01-09_10-20-53

 

Edited by Evan
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2 inch level max is what i would do if you had clearance issues on the roads you travel. i would not do the 3 inch.

 

if you have no clearance issues id drop the rear 2 inches to allow the right amount of loaded squat. i would utilize correct length/travel rear shocks and not alter the mounts.

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Im thinking drop the rear 2" well 2.5ish 

 

No rubbing issues yet though i am hitto g the control arm. I do have 1.5" spacers on the way to match the d80 track width. 

 

3" wants longer control arms so does 2" lift but its not bad. 

Was kinda looking at long arms on stock height ofcourse id have to fab it.

 

Im fine welding new shock mounts on. Ruff stuff has some cool jeep shock mounts they just happen to be the same as whats on these trucks.

 

The shocks may work as is. Down 2"s

 

Taking factory block out will make the truck sit darn near perfectly level i cant believe they run tall blocks from the factory

 

 

 

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Did some messing around. I really like 35x12.5x17s i put balance beads in them today holy cow what difrince i was getting a shimmy through the steering wheel now its nice and smooth

 

Also jack it up to see what 2" would look like in front. I think i like the front up 2" like pictured.

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Just enough to get rid of some rake but still have it sitt level under a load.

 

Looks like im going to have to teach myself how to refresh my dana 80. My pinion bearings have play in them.

Edited by Evan

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Pinion yoke had 1/8" or so of play and has been leaking.  Also making a rumbling noisd felt through the truck. 

I decided to see if it was loose beforei tore down the axle sure enough itl ratlled on about a 1/4 turn tighter.

Test drive it and all was good.  Hmmm. Pulled the cover ring gear looked good no metal. Decided id just toss a new pinion seal on and call it good. 

 

This impact has been one of the best tools ive invested in.  

2018-01-14_05-43-53

So glad all is appearing to be good after tigthing pinion

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When i took the seal out i cleaned everything realy good. All bearing rollers are present doesnt seem to be any pitting.

So i tossed a new seal on it.

 

I also spent some time degunking the ring and pinion and spider gears.

 

Hopefully she dodged a bullett for now. Dana 80 is pretty spendy axle to buy parts for.

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Offcourse my pinion seal is leaking. Cleaned it out super good and made sure new seal wasnt riding where old seal used to ride.

 

Guess ill try it again. Might slide a  credit card around it first

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As tight the impact would go. Then bar on 3/4 breaker bar. Was unable to get it any tighter.

 

Its atleast passed 300ftlbs. Impact is suposed do go to 700 but it wouldnt suprise me if ut doesnt make it to 700 spec.

450-500 is what is recomended on the pinion nut.  Wich equates to tight as shit. 

The tourge has nothing to do with bearing preload both bearings are pressed in case and pinion has shims adusting gear mess. Carrier bearings are also shimmed for propper mess. . Has to be shimmed for depth and side to side. 

 

Yoke is pulled tight agaisnt outer bearing. Inside of pinion tight agaisnt inside bearing like sandwich. 

 

My noise was becase the pinion was loose it would walk up down the ring gear under decelerating then under throttle it would be pushed back were it was suposed to be. 

 

To be honest i was guessing a tranny noise. It wasnt untill putting it in 4 low we figured it out.  We could reproduce the noise at exactly the same speed as 2 high but in 4 low at the same speed ground speed. 

 

Might just be cheap seal might be the installer that installed it. Screwed up the seal.

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Banged out the 2" spacers in 4 hours. No coil compressor 

 

2018-01-20_08-51-15

Removing upper control arm bolt let it drop plenty. I also removed track bar on frame not sure that was neccesarry though

 

Spacers are to match dana 80 track width. The dually spacers put it to wide by about 8"

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Shocks are plenty long i was alittle worried id have to get 5100s ;)

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2018-01-20_08-53-17

 

 

Front is now sitting 2" lower then rear instead of 5. 

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Be aware your caster angles are wrong. Also, the axle alignment is wrong as well because you going to need an adjustable track bar now. Stock track bar wasn't design for 2" leveling kit. You might be able to add so caster angle to the lower control arms to make do. If you still short you'll have to have the adjustable lower arms. 

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Drives better than before. Steering wheel returns to center coming out of turns, castor is non tire wearing angle. I tried to see if i could tell the axle isnt centerd due to track bar.

I didnt put the sway bar back on after driving it alittle i dont think i will truck rides alot better softer feeling plenty stable.

My jeep i run with no sway bars on a soft suspenion the truck drives like its on rails.

 

Got to thinking if im going to do control arms its just as easy to do long arms ofcourse track bar to. Ill have to level the truck best i can and run some plumb bobs to see how far off it is.

 

Im alittle critical on this stuff like you but for most part i think the average guy could toss 2" on front never get it aligned and never really neex to.

No tire wearing angles affected rides good drives good run it.

 

Make sure shocks are long enough

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Whered mopar man when you want to turn ball joints into a 30 minute job.

 

Steered this hub off, cussed yelled and bled

 

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I wouldnt recomend ball joints as quick easy money saving job

I rented a press and ended up fabbing sleeves myself nothing in balljoint kit would work.

Im going to clean this hub up and antisieze the shit out of it 

The drivers side let go a few years ago. Its still good and i dont have money to replace it right now :(

 

 

The hard parts done. 

 

2018-02-19_08-10-07

Ended quitting here. 

 

 

Edited by Evan
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Cleaned up the knuckle and unit bearing with (death wheel) wire wheel. Now they fit together nicely. 

I threw the damn mud sheild as far as i could throw it same as i did the other side now they match. Ive found mud/dust sheilds do nothing but hold mud sticks and dirt agaisnt the rotor. 

 

Now its to damn cold to do anymore. 

 

 

Greased the uppers any holy hell they took alot of grease.

 

Next up after this is steering or control arms. 

Control arms and track bar will be all adjustable. Still debating hiems or rubber or combinatiin of both

 

Im getting used to driving the jeep and have a welder on back of the dodge wich is handy to not be tied to a 220 10ft extension cord.

 

Also debating a hypotherm 30 air plazma to maintain portability but having 45xp in the shop has spoiled me.

 

Also have 150ft of welding leads enroute. Its always been a dream of mine to bite into the portable welding word.  Thinking about renewing a few certs though i never did find much need for certs.

 

Holy cow im getting side tracked.

 

 

My beaitiful Crystal watching me build a metal gate

2018-02-19_07-07-50

 

Edited by Evan
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At the tire store. Got tired of rough riding 35x12.5s

Going with 285x75x17s 34x11 tire.

 

Ill get a pick ounce mounted.

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I like the stance much better than the 12.5wide tire.

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For some reason body line doesnt quite line up

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Carefull moparman unexspected storms flat getting after it. Less than half inch was forcasted. Boise is up to 4-5" now.  Mtn homes sitting between 1-2" we just got called to start pushing. Everyone tried to wait it out but mother natures 

having other ideas

2018-02-22_10-49-08

 

Edited by Evan
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Sway bar back on. Okay okay after some freeway miles i would not recommend running without.

2018-03-03_08-09-38

Raised mounts in anticipation of steering also coming up

Edited by Evan
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i removed the front sway bar on my 98.5 to increase articulation and did not really notice any diminishment of highway handling but i sure did notice when i removed the rear then threw the cabover back on. rear sway bar made a difference with a high profile load.

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I was going to leave it off. Then a few days agon coming from boise to mtn home i was bring thrown all over in wind. Ive got a 500lb welder in bed to. Its mit bad but i also have a 1500lb welder.

 

The new rubber seems to be following grooves similar to how m55s do. With bar on truck is driving much better on the freeway. 

 

I have to go to jerome for a load of pioe next friday and wad starting to dread the trip with goose kneck. Glad i found time to get it back on.

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