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Gary - K7GLD

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About Gary - K7GLD

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    ITD Member

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  • Occupation:
    Don't got any - don't WANT any!
  • Biography:
    Retired daily newspaper production manager
  1. Gary - K7GLD

    GREAT dyno day!

    I'm sure others will be checking in with their own versions and opinions - here's mine! Got back an hour or so ago from the Idaho Bombers dyno event, near Boise. My last trip there was 2 years ago, with the stuff in my sig, except then I had the Smarty stacked with the Comp, this time, the Smarty was history, and I have a DTT stainless steel intake installed: Naturally, I was interested in seeing what the trade-off might be power-wise - and was NOT disappointed! Results were: Added 4 HP Added 6 ft. lbs Tq. Nothing earth shattering in power or torque - but they ARE *gains* over the previous runs, not losses, and results I am VERY happy with - and the DTT intake/Smarty trade was, for me, a good one! The new numbers are in my sig - guys frequently want to know what power increases can be obtained with various mods - mine are below - and give excellent results whether looking for stoplight to stoplight improvement, or towing relatively heavy up a steep grade - I can instantly select a Comp setting that totally controls smoke, while delivering excellent power AND economy - or go all out for those "Ford encounters" - and NEVER have to keep my eye glued to the EGT gauge in the process! Gotta LOVE these trucks!
  2. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a coolant filter

    A TDR member noticed my reference to a cooling system "Anode" I made earlier in this thread - it's probably not worth a special thread, so I'll focus on it here. "Sacrificial Anodes" are used commonly on metal objects subjected to water immersion, either occasionally, or full-time - outboard motors, and other fresh or saltwater items are quite common. The fact that dissimilar metals submerged in fresh, or saltwater, will generate electrolysis - an electrical current flow, carries with it the usually damaging effects of metallic erosion, creates the need for a method to counter that phenomena - thus, anodes. The function of the Anode - Zinc Anodes seem most common - is to introduce into the system a softer and more easily attacked (Sacrificed!) object for electrolysis to be drawn to - leaving other system metals relatively protected and undamaged. The device I have is much like the coolant filter this thread is about - they are available from several sources - or a guy could fabricate his own. I don't remember the brand or source for mine, but it had been pointed to in an older thread on this or another board, so I bought the one seen here - they are not expensive, and LOTS cheaper than a radiator core! Here's mine: Here's what it looks like after about a year in my radiator: Sorta cruddy - but what's UNDERNEATH all that accumulated crud? Notice all the obvious pitting and erosion of the Zinc Anode material - THEN imagine that erosion inside your radiator or heater core - or other scattered parts inside the cooling system! Check some of the threads here and on the TDR, about guys needing to replace a leaking radiator or heater core, and the work and expense involved - then ask yourself if the $10 or so for a Sacrificial Anode is worth the cost to YOU! Here's a pointer to more info, including a method to check out how vulnerable YOUR cooling system is to electrolysis damage: aluminum radiator technical information OK, so again, this is usually a longer term protection item - guys trading trucks every few years can probably avoid the eventual expense caused by electrolysis - and pass that on to the NEXT owner - but to guys like me, who plan on long-term truck ownership, the expense and maintenance are easily worth the cost!
  3. Gary - K7GLD

    August dyno day?????????????/ catcher ecm

    Just wanted to post a follow-up for any who might find themselves in the same situation - a buddy sent me his Smarty, and I reprogrammed the CaTCHER ECM back to stock, NO problem! First, programmed in one of the Smarty programming levels, then programmed back to stock - the CaTCHER SW was GONE, and the ECM performs as OEM - just as I wanted! :thumbup:
  4. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a coolant filter

    Here's the installation instructions:
  5. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a coolant filter

    Off and on, there have been discussions on TDR forums concerning coolant filters - what are they, how do they work - and are they really needed. This thread will present a setup as sold by DIESELSITE - DIESEL MAINTENANCE and PERFORMANCE - this outfit offers coolant setups tailored for specific brand and model trucks, which means everything is included for the installation except tools. This particular set, for my '02 Dodge/Cummins, was $119. These are more accurately described as bypass coolant filters - the main coolant flow remains undisturbed, but a small bypass coolant flow is taken off a port on the engine head, run thru the added coolant bypass filter, then the filtered flow is returned to the system thru the heater return hose. The filter itself - a Baldwin brand - has a built in restriction, as seen below: BUT, I'm getting ahead of myself - here's what comes in the box: Note the nice touch of the included inlet/outlet ball valves, seen above at the upper center - these make filter changes a snap, with no coolant loss during a filter change, other than what's contained inside the filter canister. There's lots of flexibility regarding actual location of the filter itself, as well as routing of the hoses - so I won't dwell specifically on that, but just show how I did mine overall. Here's where the coolant flow is picked off the existing port in the head - and this is the only place where I deviated from what the instructions called for - they used a straight fitting and 3/8 barb that stuck straight up - requiring the attached hose to make a sharp bend to get to wherever the filter itself was mounted. I didn't like that, so bought and installed the fittings to allow the far neater installation seen here: The return coolant flow requires that the heater return hose be cut, and a "T" fitting installed: And finally, the actual site I selected to install the filter bracket and canister, is on the passenger side frame rail just behind the front bumper - and camera perspectives can be deceiving - NONE of the added filter or attachments come even CLOSE to other truck components - no potential contact, and the coolant filter itself is easy to get to for changing. So, again - WHY a coolant filter? Here's what the seller says: SO, there ya have it - mine's all installed, and when the first filter change is done, I'll cut the canister apart, and post what the element caught in my system. I've serviced my cooling system at better than required intervals - used Prestone coolant, steam distilled water, and Prestone water pump lube. I also have a zinc anode radiator cap device that supposedly eliminates cooling system electrolysis damage. SO, we'll see what visual benefits this setup provides - stay tuned! :-laf
  6. SO, ya wanna dig into that 5600 yerself and save big eh? OK, here's a neat thread showing how it is done: http://dodgeforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112548
  7. Gary - K7GLD

    ITD August Dyno Day!!!!!!!!!

    Will be there - if nothing unforseen pops up... Gotta see what the new Stefan Kondolay SS intake does - if anything... Really need to reprogram my ECM before the dyno run.
  8. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a Frantz oil bypass filter

    One of the oldest, often quoted (FALSE!) claims, is that the TP will fall apart, and end up in the crankcase - but fact is, most papers, including TP actuallly get STRONGER when saturated with oil - besides, PAPER is basically what the OEM full-flow filters are made out of too! That was partially the reason I posted both the picture of a used TP cartridge, as well as the oil/particle count report - if there WERE any loose, disintegrated paper particles floating around, they would most certainly show up in those reports as "insoluables". Has a TP cartridge EVER fallen apart? Perhaps - in about the same percentage as OEM full flow filters split outer canisters or THEIR filter media fails - as I pointed out, poor quality, poorly installed TP is certainly a recipe for failure... Been using these for nearly 50 years now - never had a TP cartridge come apart yet...
  9. Gary - K7GLD

    August dyno day?????????????/ catcher ecm

    Doesn't matter WHICH specific Smarty is doing the job, as long as it has the latest OEM version stock programming installed. Bob has already stated over in a thread on TDR that the way I described WILL work - only condition being, that the Smarty being used WILL see what the original ECM programming was before the CaTCHER mod, and THAT will be what Smarty will then load back when it's returned to stock - or the latest revised version of that OEM software as contained in Smarty. This means that if a '99 ECM was CaTCHER modded to operate on an '02 like mine, it will work great on the '02 with that program - BUT, if returned to stock with a Smarty, ANY Smarty, it will THEN be returned to a '99 programmed ECM like it started out, NOT an '02... Not a problem in my case, since my CaTCHER-ized ECM is off a truck like mine to begin with...
  10. Gary - K7GLD

    August dyno day?????????????/ catcher ecm

    YUP - as Nate said, all that needs to be done, is for the actual owner to unload his own trucks ECM Smarty programming, which returns it to stock and unlocks the VIN - then it can be connected to a truck like mine, some level of Smarty programming loaded - then immediately returned to stock, which in my case, will remove the CaTCHER program, and return the ECM back to whatever level of OEM programming is preloaded into the Smarty. THEN, it is again VIN unlocked, and can be returned to the original truck for regular program loading... Any time Smarty programming is returned to stock, the VIN lock feature is removed, and whatever OEM ECM software is installed in the Smarty is loaded into the ECM - and that is NOT necessarily the same OEM programming as what was originally in the ECM from the factory, but whatever revision level that is contained inside the Smarty itself. It's ideal, of course, that the internal Smarty stock software IS the latest level currently available for the truck year and model it's being used on... Thanks Nate, will look you up at Dyno Day - and wouldn't mind lining up still another helpful vollunteer, just in case...
  11. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a Frantz oil bypass filter

    How about some oil analysis, and particle count results? Here's a recent set - particle count with about 7K miles on Delo 400: And here's a recent report with 20K miles on the same oil: Those familiar with particle counts and general oil analysis, will recognize that the above results are extremely good - and a tribute to what a good bypass filter can do to keep oil clean, and extend engine life!
  12. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a Frantz oil bypass filter

    IT's worth mentioning, that Frantz supplies their own brand of special TP for these filters, and those are supplied to fit into the canister without any peeling of outer layers - their rolls have double thickness inner cores, and are very tightly wound for superior density. They are a bit higher in price than off the shelf stuff - but still WAY cheaper than any of the spin-on type bypass canisters used by competing makers - I have, since the above thread originated, switched over to the Frantz cartridges, and so far, filtration seem visibly improved, and will be doing an oil change and analysis this Fall, and will post results...
  13. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a Frantz oil bypass filter

    So how do you actually install the new TP into the canister? Well, after wiping it out carefully, you must carefully remove enough wraps of TP off the roll to create very snug - actually TIGHT - fit into the canister: Here's where it is EXTREMELY important to carefully select a TP material that is wound VERY tightly on the core - density is the important factor here, not "softness" - and deep embossing and perfumes are not wanted here either! Consider the TP not as bunch of loose individual sheets, but as a solid dense filter CARTRIDGE that the oil must travel thru lengthwise before being returned to the engine... Heres the TP being forced into the canister after trimming the outer unwanted layers off: Good strong pressure, and a slight twisting motion gets it done... And then reinstall on the filter base - and ready to head on down the road - with VERY clean oil! Are these Frantz filters for everyone? Probably not, even without the "extras" I have done to mine, they require more care and attention than some of the spin-on bypass filters available from places like Amsoil - and while the Frantz and other similar paper towel Bypass filters are normally quite simple to service, someone CAN select the wrong filter material, and then install it poorly - and then whine endlesly about the poor quality of the filter itself - just as they do with other similar accessories. BUT, if you want clean oil second to none, and are willing to put in just a LITTLE extra effort, these sure do work nice - you DID see my dipstick back in the lead post, didn't you...? Frantz Filters Manufactured by We Filter It! Inc - Oil, Diesel and Gas Filters :)
  14. Gary - K7GLD

    Anatomy of a Frantz oil bypass filter

    NOW, as to those "mods" I mentioned, here's one: What you see here, is a double thickness of 100-mesh brass screen - this sits at the bottom of the canister with several thicknessses of coffee filter material on top of it. The purpose was to catch any stray paper dust particles that MIGHT shed off the TP rolls from the factory cutting operation - dunno if it helps, but sure doesn't hurt! THEN, to help capture any stray iron or other ferrous material, I made a gizmo that inserts into the main lube incoming flow, using a stack of magnets: Also note the neoprene O-rings around the filters center post - those were selected to provide a snug fit between the TP inner core, and that center post, to prevent any lube from migrating down the center instead of THRU the TP roll - it works nicely, and you can actually see the embossing from those O-rings on the inner surfce of the TP roll where oil pressure has compressed the TP cartridge against them - here's a better shot of the O-rings, as well as showing the new coffee filter material installed prior to reassembling the filter: MORE
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