millco

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millco last won the day on January 23

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About millco

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    ITD Administrator

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  • Location
    Twin Falls
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Mechanic
  • Biography
    I really like the outdoors and think getting there is half the fun!
  • Interests
    Outdoors are best and of course making some smoke to get there is even better!!

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  1. Morimoto HIDs

    This is looking pretty good! I've toyed with this idea for quite a while..... If you get some projectors to do your own; make sure you get quality ones! I've noticed some cheaper cars have very poor performance from their projectors. I also think the OEM lens sealant can be removed with a solvent or maybe even ATF...? Seeing how easily the lens is deteriorating in the sunshine, I don't want to cook them to get that polyurethane seal apart! Has anyone tried an LED 'bulb' in their projectors? I wonder how that would turn out? LEDs have come a long way! The new Ford pickups have a pretty good low beam pattern and range with their OEM LEDs! I think they will continue to improve.
  2. What did you ever decide to do with that exhaust brake I sent your way? If your not going to us en it I'll take it back for a project.

    1. Show previous comments  7 more
    2. millco

      millco

      Mine is 734-5097

      text or call when you want......  I'll go make sure I know where that brake is (pretty sure it's in her truck!).  We should be there Wednesday night if that will work for you.  If not, I'll leave it there in Boise at my boys place (or do you know Daniel (BioHumvie)?  I am meeting him also.

    3. D/UNIT

      D/UNIT

      I met Daniel years ago but wouldn't say that I know him. If you get it to this side on the valley I'm sure I can make arrangements to pick it up. I just saw this message. I need to change my notifications so I get alerted when you message me. 

    4. millco

      millco

      I need to call you!!  As you can tell I didn't make it!  Maybe I'll just see if you want to still sell........

      I'll call you tomorrow; what time is good?

  3. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    He got it!! Turns out the Run fuse was corroded under the hood in the power module. I must have skimmed over that one and missed that 'little detail'....
  4. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    Thanks for the diagram!! I'll give it a try!! On the solenoid: I think it's working correctly. There is a pull circuit on it that hits when you turn the key to start. Then when you let up the hold circuit can keep the solenoid in. When we were messing around in there, I believe the engine didn't start because we never hit the start position with the key (so the solenoid wasn't pulled in for fuel). Right now I believe the truck is missing power to a circuit from the key on position that powers the windows, air bags, abs, and supplies power to the starter solenoid. Find that problem and I think it will be fixed!
  5. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    Got to see Pete this weekend: trucks still down! I know he replaced the ignition switch and that didn't help... HELP!!! Anyone have a shop manual? Mike, let me know if you can find one!
  6. Check out Chevron's Delo line for this Trans oil also! I really like it in mine!! Keep us posted Mike on your progress.
  7. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    I thought I would update this. Pete's been really busy (he has a neat job! I should share some videos!!) so I don't know where he is on this..... With Key ON Blower fan has NO Power Power windows has NO Power ABS and Air Bag has NO Power I didn't know how the fuel solenoid on the injection pump works. Turn ON Key and the hold circuit should be energized (and this one is!). This isn't enough to move the solenoid by itself so fuel will still be off. Hit the starter with the Key switch and the Pull circuit should be energized (this one is!). This will actually pull in the solenoid to supply fuel. If you let go of the Key and it returns to ON, the Hold circuit should keep the solenoid pulled in (this one does!). We weren't hitting Start with the Key before manually operating the starter. We shall test again and I'll bet the engine will run fine! Anyone have a shop manual? I suspect the problem is the Key / Ignition switch. I suggest we check there next. When you turn the Key to Start, the Starter relay in the power module does operate it's coil! So I believe there is no power for its contacts to put to the starter (and we did swap that relay so we know that little relay is good!). Any more info to help out would be greatly appreciated!!
  8. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    I didn't mean to confuse the situation: The only way he can get it to crank right now is to short the terminals on the starter. Along with the starter circuit not working correctly, the engine will not run even with the key on. My thinking so far is that there is no start signal to the starter as well as no power to the fuel shut off solenoid. Am I right in thinking that the fuel solenoid has to have power to allow fuel and allow the engine to run? (As long as that solenoid is functioning correctly!)
  9. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    You have a shop manual for it? (I think I might have a .pdf if you don't....)
  10. 1998 2500 5.9L, No Crank, No Start

    Welcome to ITD Pete! I'm hoping we can come up with some ideas that will narrow this down for you... So - When you jumped the terminals on the starter, with the key on, the engine still didn't run? (But the starter did crank normally, as long as you jumped those terminals)..
  11. Update! That Ben is very good at diagnosing problems. On the Nissan he found a bolt was too long for it's hole in the head. There are a couple of grounds on that bolt that are supposed to be captivated by it. By the bolt being too long, they basically were just sitting there and not a very ground at all. He had to replace one of the coils. I believe that I must have put in that wrong bolt when I did the head gasket a few years ago. I also feel that bad ground could have taken out that coil. Time will tell if the thing runs better and if the mileage comes up. Why would someone do such shoddy work as to install too long of a bolt, not notice it and that it wasn't holding down the grounds well enough!! Uugh! Pump, gasket set and seal are on order for the other one. Soon that one should be back on the road also! Way to go Ben!!
  12. I back home. Tired! Going to sleep. Hate that I have to get right back up for work in a few... Ben made it back: pan's off! Oil pump is out! Diagnosis is that motor was sludged up. New front oil seal and oil pump and it should run a bunch farther! What's a good way to clean up the inside of that poor little engine. I'll get pics from her and post some..... I'm almost tempted to 'pickle' the crankcase with diesel and idle it for a long time!
  13. Ok: I found a shop manual for the Nissan (It maybe a factory one. Can't tell yet....) If I can sift through the thousands of pages and find the right one(s); maybe I can fix the darn thing! The Corolla...... I can't get the oil pan off. I don't know what gasket maker they used but it is beyond awesome. Bolts were not needed whatsoever!!! But I found some more info and it appears the oil pump in on the front of the engine. Under the timing cover. They should have done it the same way International did the 7.3L Powerstroke. Those are just under the harmonic balancer (On the outside of the timing cover)! Anyway, once I cook that pan off of there and do some cleaning in there; I need an impact to pull the harmonic balancer off. Anyone around Boise have one? I don't know if Ben's compressor is big enough, so I might need to borrow one of those too...... Or a battery powered one!!!!
  14. I use uTorrent... I think it should work. But that site has no download link I believe. Unless I'm missing something. I do that here and there......
  15. Oh! (The fine print: " Please note that this page does not hosts or makes available any of the listed filenames. You cannot download any of those files from here. "